|
What
components make a good
meal?
Often when asked what
we
want
for dinner, we focus on
the center of the plate,
chicken, beef, fish but
just like a jazz band,
all components must work
in unison to produce
beautiful music. A
missed beat on the plate
can turn a great concept
into a lackluster final
product. What is the
thought process Chefs
use in picking the right
accompaniments to make a
dish sing? How do you
make the same steak that
your competitor down the
street is using more
appealing and better
tasting?
Persnickety
side notes: Here the
concept of the dish is
only the first part, it
still has to be executed
to perfection. Color,
flavor and texture need
to be the first items
considered. There are
few things worse when
going out to eat and
getting a plate that
looks like it was
designed by a color
blind five year old.
When people are paying
hard earned money for
food, it should at least
look like the kitchen
cares about what they
are doing. There is an
old culinary school
adage that “the first
bite is in the eye.”
Your eyes are the first
sense that comes into
contact with food and
they should be pleased
with what they see not
begging to be
instantaneously blinded.
I am a huge fan of
Japanese cuisine, mainly
for the light simple
flavors and the way the
food is aesthetically
presented. The food is
basic. Take sushi – raw
fish and rice – but its
presentation with color,
usually rich, deep
tones, looking soft and
tender, is set against
firm-to-the-bite white
rice, simply
steamed and seasoned.
Add neon green wasabi
and fluorescent pickled
ginger and a simple
bamboo platter and it
can look like a canvas
in the hands of Monet.
And the flavors
interplay fresh,
slightly oily fishes
with rice, moistened and
sweetened with mirin
plus the sinus clearing
punch of wasabi,
intensified by the
pleasant saltiness of
soy sauce and finished
with the
palate-cleansing bite of
fresh ginger. Simple
notes played well, make
a symphony in the mouth.
But if you are a meat
and potatoes kind of
person and consider
sushi bait, that does
not mean you are
confined to eating
boring meals. Simple
side dishes can be
enhanced to make the
main dish stand out.
Mashed potatoes are
still popular on
restaurant menus.
Because of versatility,
you can make one item
and flavor it
differently to enhance
different meats or fish.
Salmon, with either
spicy or slightly green
wasabi mash – the orange
fleshed salmon and
avocado green hued may
sound like
a 1970s color
combination, but it
works well with food not
so well with
refrigerators and shag
carpeting – or with
potatoes with corn black
beans and
roasted chilies for a
southwestern flair. With
beef, you can go with
the now standard roasted
garlic mashers. I like
to go even stronger
flavors with beef,
depending on the cooking
method. Braised
beef-short ribs, for
example, which have deep
flavor and character
need a potato worthy of
them so add horseradish
and aged white-cheddar
cheese (the orange
variety yields a
jaundiced sickly colored
final product) a few
chopped scallions at the
last minute and you have
added depth of flavor
that will make the main
dish taste better.
Roasted potatoes can be
finished with rosemary
and
crumbled bleu
cheeses for a sharpness
that interplays well
with beef.
Texture is important
also, mash potatoes
don’t work well with
crab cakes; both items
are soft in the mouth in
addition to being white
and bland on the
plate. Anyone who has
worked with me, knows I
have fondness for rustic
dishes and sides (ok
borderline obsession)
and I love hashes.
(Insert Cheech and Chong
joke here). Sweet potato
hash works wonderfully
with crab cakes, lightly
roasted, then sautéed
with fresh diced
tomatoes and scallions.
It adds dimension to the
crab cakes and color to
the plate and a little
crunch and texture to
the taste.
Take
ordinary side dishes and
tweak them a little.
Instead of creamy
coleslaw, use Napa
cabbage and make Asian
coleslaw for grilled or
broiled fish dishes.
Roast or grill
vegetables to
concentrate flavors
instead of putting the
flavor into the water
that you throw out.
Until next month bon
appétit. |