Hi, there:
Let me introduce myself and give you a little introduction to my new job. My name is Cheffy and I have 18 years' experience in the restaurant business in Cape May and nobody really wants to know how many years before that. This column is a biased point of view of food, recipes, restaurant critique, gossip and the occasional alcohol report: usually about wine, but I can't leave out other items like beer, hard liquor and other imbibeables.
I hope you read my column, but those of you who think you know who I am,  realize the points of view are mine. Like them or dislike them but if you are ambivalent about them, I'd like to hear from you. Thanks for your support and for supporting CapeMay.com.
 
The food thing:
Conscientious chefs and fish mongers like Samuels and Son Seafood concur that early April is the beginning of wild salmon season. Available from April 1st for about 6 weeks is Columbia River Salmon. Although not as cold a river as The Copper River, Columbia River Salmon is simply one of the best flavored fish, known for its fat content and clean environment. It can be prepared in many ways. Obviously some restaurants know how to use it and some don't. Here's a sampling of recipes in and around town. Chef Eric Hegyi of The Peter Shields Inn (which recently or soon will change hands; see gossip below) is presenting Wild Columbia River Salmon with a Fennel-Mandarin Orange Salsa, Chile Oil, Wilted Radicchio and Basmati Rice.

Kudos to Eric, who is well aware of the affinity salmon has with orange, orange with fennel, and everything with a drizzle of heat. Wakes up those flavors.
 
Another wild fish available as of March 15th is Wild West Coast Halibut: light and clean this low calorie, high protein, rich in vitamin B12 and B6 fish can weigh over 500 pounds (yo, a little too big for my cutting table).
Mimi Wood, much heralded chef of The Washington Inn, will offer Wild Halibut with a vanilla-hazelnut crust, a coconut vinaigrette and a mash of ginger infused purple Peruvian potatoes. (no veg.?)
I like the sound of this; Caribbean-inspired cuisine was one of my favorite influences during my tenure as a chef (not quite over yet). I didn't talk with Mimi directly, but rather with owner Michael Craig, who said that March business was just standard March. The Inn will open 2 extra days beginning April 1st. expanding their schedule to Thursday thru Sunday.

Down at the bottom of the mall,
Olde Congress Hall,
responded promptly to my call,
Chef Jeffery Klova commutes past the big mall,
yet has he dropped the ball?
No wild salmon or halibut yet; maybe this fall.

Truthfully, this was my first chat with Jeffery, (yes, that is the correct spelling) who seems like a determined, positive and upbeat dude. Long commute to town, but it appears that he is giving the Pig its long-due stability. His late spring-summer menu offers such labor-intensive and thought-provoking dishes such as: Pork Oso Buco and Braised Short Ribs. We chefs love those short ribs. Yours truly even served them at a wine dinner recently as the main meat course with a fabulous Wild Horse Syrah: big, meaty, bold and spicy.


Calls to Daniels, Union Park and The Black Duck yielded answering machines during the week, and since I'm now Mr. Mom, when the kids are at school is when I write. Next month, guys.
 

What would I have done with wild west coast halibut?
Here's an item from an old menu. Clearly still a fabulous dish, so some of us were ahead of our time. Recipe Included for you from me.

 

Gossip:
What's the latest, newest gossip, I'll give a taste of what I've heard lately. I don't get to hear everything of course. . .

FRESH HOT GOSSIP

Neil Elsohn of The Waters Edge acclaim is back in business. Neil will be opening his new eatery - Restaurant 1919 - at the location of the former Anchorage Restaurant, across the street from the Lobster House and at the foot of the bridge coming into town. Watch this site for grand opening details.

Has the Peter Shields changed hands yet? Well as of this writing, Chef Eric says yes, and the new owners take over on April 1st and will spend a small fortune redoing the place since they clearly have the bucks. Others involved in the deal say nothing is signed yet. Well, lets go: either announce it or not; we're not going to sit around and play diddle here, now are we?

The Waters Edge is closed. Property owner Gus Andy would not accept phone calls from me (so what's new). The grapevine say that its going to be another diner. As soon as I heard that a friend of mine called and said that The Waters Edge was advertising itself for rent. Most recently the grapevine says that the guys who used to run The Lampost Diner in North Wildwood and then The Captains Table are taking over???

 

I hope the Chew and View doesn't get hurt. The former Waters Edge staff has dissipated and can now be found at: The Shields, Martini Beach, Cabanas, Union Park, and other places around town all waiting for former chef/owner Neil Elsohn to get off his lazy tush and find them a place to work together again. Elsohn did not return our phone calls either.

In other Cape May news, The Mansion house is changing hands, soon, very soon, more on that soon. Bad word. Union Park, Union Park, Union Park, What's with the name already. I remember when it first opened with that name. They compared themselves to Union Street in San Francisco, a bastion of fine, upscale shops, Union Bay for clothes, and Union something else for something else, remember that? I didn't get it then and it still sticks in my mind. The dining room is a little uptight for me, but I haven't been there for dinner since it's been under the direction of Chef John Schatz, formerly of the Peter Shields, and I haven't talked to him yet either, but I hear that the other owner is waiting tables in addition to being the owner, Hello.

Well, I do hope you felt something about my column, I honestly don't mean to offend anyone ever. Will you still respond to my phone calls, e-mails and other means of communication? Finally, in the words of one of my favorite newscasters, "I'll see you on the radio."

Cheffy
4/1/05

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