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I am a candyholic. One piece of candy is
too much. Two pounds at one sitting? Not
nearly enough. It is somewhat
ironic then that CapeMay.com’s
offices should be above
The Original Fudge Kitchen on the
Washington Street Mall where I am
faced with temptation every morning as
the lovely sweet aroma of chocolate
fudge cooking in the kettles
below
wafts upstairs and fills the offices
with its heavenly fragrance. I breathe
it in and resolve everyday that I will
“DIS” the person handing out fudge
samples just below our front window. I
will walk on by as though I don’t have a
yen for fudge because once I have tasted
the milky mixture, I will be lured into
the Fudge Kitchen and completely
surrender into buying “Two pounds of our
creamy fudge” so I can get “a free box
of salt water taffy.”
Don’t get me wrong. I have bought fudge before but only as a
present for others. Once in a while, I
am tempted to buy a quarter pound of
chocolate-covered pretzels – for
medicinal purposes only. So, it is with
some trepidation that I agree, in honor
of Valentines Day to spend a day in the
life of a candy maker – namely Joe Bogle,
who along with his younger brother Paul,
started The Original Fudge Kitchen on
the boardwalk in North Wildwood in 1972
when he was 17 years-old and his brother
was 15.
“We were looking for a way to pay for our college tuitions,” he
says. “We first called it The Fudge
Kitchen but then the next year someone
else opened a store with a similar
name. So we renamed ours The
Original Fudge Kitchen.” Proving, he
says, that good almost always comes from
adversity. “It was the best thing we
ever did. People loved the word original
and it made us stand out.”
So, that brings me back to my assignment – the day in the life of a
candy maker and my candy addiction. I
prepare myself with gum. If I’m chewing
gum, I can’t eat any candy. Right? I am
also armed with our Art Director and
photographer Stephanie Madsen who shares
my problem. Power in numbers, don’t you
agree? We are invincible. We are strong.
Hear us roar: We will not eat any candy
while spending the day
with
the candy man.
Martin is already stirring the pot (literally, not figuratively
speaking) when we arrive. The vanilla
fudge mixture is boiling over a pot of
water (think of mega double broiler). He
stirs it with a four-foot long, wooden
paddle being careful not to get burnt as
the creamy concoction bubbles up. Beside
the giant pot are the ingredients for
the next batch of fudge – a measuring
cup filled with 13 pounds of sugar.
Thirteen pounds of sugar!! Three quarts
of cream!! And huge bags of
chocolate liquor wafers for the chocolate fudge.
“Here try one of these,” says Joe, offering Stephanie and I a wafer. “There’s no sugar in it until we
add it. It’s
pure
chocolate.”
Well. Ok. If there’s no sugar, I take my gum out and try and small taste.
Stephanie and I both wince at the
bitterness of the taste. He’s right. There’s not a drop of
sugar in it.
In the summertime, the candymakers begin at 9 in the morning and
continue ten hours a day, six days a
week. Today, since Valentines Day is
looming, they are making Valentine
hearts filled with fudge. Out in the
retail area, the chocolate fudge is
sitting in copper kettles to cool
just waiting for the candymakers to
start whippin’ that fudge.
Meanwhile
the ladies are individually wrapping
chocolates to go into the prepared boxes
of candy. Marlene is carefully
carrying back the hearts. Fudge has
already been poured into them from the
whipped batch which Hank has just
finished.
Joe cautions her not to put a lid on the heart because all the
fudge has to sit in the baking pans or
molds for two days before it is ready to
be cut, otherwise, it will crumble when
cut. Then Joe picks up the
five-foot long walnut paddle (walnut
doesn’t splinter) and we’re off. It’s
like watching the pizza man throw the
dough in the air. When the paddle gets
rolling the fudge whips into the air
like a chocolate rocket and springs back
into the kettle. Once you start whipping
the fudge, you can’t stop until it’s all
mixed which takes about 15 minutes.
There’s no one to tell you when to stop,
you just have to know. That’s why it
takes two months to apprentice as a
candymaker. “Then you pour the fudge
into the baking pans or heart molds,”
says Joes, “After that, you go in for
the kill for this last one.” He takes a
special “flexible metal” spatula which
bends as it swirls around the kettle
grabbing every last, wonderful, gooey
morsel of fudge. When he’s finished, the
copper kettle is almost clean of fudge
mix.
It’s nice that Joe is such a master candymaker, but I want to try,
so I run up to the front window where
the candymaker stands and whips the
fudge in front of many
wondering eyes in the summer. Hank is at
the helm today whipping that
fudge in
the air, in complete Fudge Kitchen
attire – white chef’s hat, navy blue
shirt and white pants – and I ask him to
teach me how to do this, because I am
very hands on and this looks like fun.
“Take the paddle,” Hank says, “and go from front to back in one
smooth sweep.”
Well that’s easy enough. I, of course, immediately digress. I see
all that fudge around the copper kettle
and I can’t resist doing circular
motions, wishing it were my fingers that
were sneaking a taste of fudge.
“No,” Hank nicely corrects me, “You really need to go from front to
back, otherwise the fudge doesn’t whip.”
He does not say, “And put a little
muscle into it,” but I figure that out
by myself. Ok. Five whips and I’m tired.
I never do get the fudge to go up high
in the air. In fact, I barely get it to
reach the other side. It’s like treading
through molasses. It looks wonderfully
creamy and yummy, but I’m
clearly
out of my league here so I hand the
paddle back to the expert and move over
to the ladies wrapping the chocolates.
Being behind the counter surrounded by big glass jars of all kinds
of old-fashioned candies, each clearly
marked, is truly like being a kid in a
candy store. I spy some candy I
recognize on the shelf.
“Oh Stephanie loves these. What are they?” I ask Laura.
“Homemade Non-Pareils,” she says.
“Oh, you have got to try one,” says Joe.
“Oh no. I have gum. See? I have gum so I won’t try one.”
“There’s nothing like it. Come
on.” And he has one in his hand. It
wouldn’t be polite to refuse.
“Well, alright. Just one.”
AHHHH. Can I just say? Yummy. Then, I start looking around. Salt
water taffy midgets, Necco wafers (not
in a package like you get in the store
but loose), Legos or sweet tarts, jumbo
gum drops, licorice pastels (we know
them as Good N Plenties), log-style salt
water taffy in all kinds of flavors –
strawberry, cherry, vanilla, molasses.
“Oh these are my favorites,” I say as I spot not just the usual
jelly beans but an entire container of
only licorice jelly beans. “I love
licorice.”
“Try one,” says Joe handing me a couple.
“Hold on.” And I run out of the store and deposit my chewing gum in
the trash. I surrender. I’m tasting
everything I can. I am powerless.
“Well, if you like licorice, you’ll really like these,” says Laura,
“Old-fashioned licorice nibs with
kookaburra (whatever that is) imported
from Australia. And she hands me one.
Heaven. I’m in Heaven. Never have I
tasted anything so fabulous. So, what
else do we have? Oh my gawd! Peanut
butter logs. These are my favorites! Try
one? Sure. Halleluiah!!
Halleluliah!
Hall-eeee-luliah! What else can I try?
Oh. They have those cute little
Valentine message hearts.
Chocolate-covered pretzels. These are my
favorites! And fudge. There’s no
stopping me now.
Joe and Stephanie must escort me out of the store. I can’t stop.
Joe has helped get me closer to the door
by handing Stephanie and I each a box of
fudge and a huge box of
chocolate-covered pretzels.
I didn’t do so well as a candymaker but I certainly am a candy
lover. I think that’s a pretty good
combo. In a town where so much is
changing and has changed, it’s good to
know that we still have an old-fashioned
candy store. As I leave, I hear Laura
saying, “It’s a little over a pound, is
that all right?” |
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You
can almost trace the history of the
shore by its candy stores. You can
certainly trace the history of the Bogle
Brothers by their candy stores – which
total six in number.
To begin, Joe Bogle started his candy making career at the age of
12 when he got a summer job at Sagel’s
Candies on Beach Avenue near the Beach
Theater. Harry Sagel, whose father Louis
Segal started Sagel’s Candies in the
late 1800s, opened his first candy store
on the Wildwood boardwalk at Lincoln
Avenue in 1918. At one time, his store
in Cape May was across the street on the
pier by Convention Hall until the
Nor’easter of March 1962 came along and
swept it out to sea.
Harry Sagel was in his 80s the summer of ’68 when Joe got a job at
the Cape May store. Harry showed Joe
everything you needed to know about
being a candy man and three years later
observed, “You know, you’re pretty good
at this.”
In the summer of 1972, the Bogle brothers, with the help of Harry’s
children, who ran the stores on the
Wildwood Boardwalk, helped Joe and Paul
get started. Five years later when Joe
had finished college, Baxter’s Candy
Store on the promenade in Cape May was
for sale and the brothers opened their
second store. Baxter’s, owned by Irene
and Dick Baxter, was another candy store
started in the late 1800s as was Roth’s
Candyland at 513 Washington Street.
George Roth sold both his business and
the building to the Bogles in 1982 where
they still make and package candy today.
They started out just making fudge but got so many requests for
salt water taffy that in the summer of
1977, the brothers went on a quest for
the perfect salt water taffy recipe.
They found both the recipe and the taffy
pulling machine, circa 1917, in Atlantic
City, of course. Where else would you
find the perfect recipe for salt water
taffy? Did you know that only in South
Jersey is the taffy wrapped in log
shapes? Everywhere else in the country
the taffy is round. Marty Berdinas,
owner of Atlantic Coast Candies and the
Candy Corner, whose folks had been
making candy since, you guessed it, the
late 1800s, was getting ready to close
their doors. That recipe is still used
today at the Fudge Kitchen. And the
machine? A couple of years ago, when it
needed a part, Joe had to write to the
Library of Congress to get the
specifications and had local tool and
dye guy make the part.
Well, we could go on and on but we just wanted to give you a taste
of how the family tree of one candy
store can thread generations of history
not only in terms of the candymaking
itself but the bright, energetic
entrepreneurs that helped make the shore
a great place to visit. |
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