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There are two types of
people in this world. You have those that are passionate about food and enjoy
exploring new taste and flavor sensations, and then you have the “chicken
finger” people those that stick to safe foods and are reluctant or even hostile
to anything outside of their realm of safe bland foods. How do we acquire our
taste for food – is it nature or nurture?
A few years ago my sister brought my, then three-year-old, nephew
into the restaurant. I was working at the time. She and her husband ordered a
calamari appetizer. The three- year-old
ate better than half the plate. Children are fearless in most things simply
because they don’t have any experiences to tell them other wise. I am convinced
if one person uttered the word squid he would have stopped eating and suddenly
become ill. For the most part, we learn our food fears from our surroundings. I
cannot fathom those people who hate certain foods yet have never tried them.
There is a wonderful world of food out there. If we approached that world like a
child, we might suddenly find new things we like. Unfortunately, in this day and
age, too many parents go for the path of least resistance. Kids meals are now a
steady diet of chicken fingers and French fries. Neither of which is good for
the child or the reputation of the chicken.
I was always an adventurous eater and my parents encouraged and
supported me with only one rule – order what you want, but if you don’t eat it,
there is no second choice.
You probably think all chefs are adventurous eaters. Sadly, this is
not true. I have worked for, and with chefs who could cook amazing food, but had
some peculiar food phobias. One chef despised mushrooms and would gag when
tasting them. Like Pres. Bush, Sr., I personally cannot stand cooked broccoli.
Raw I can enjoy, but cooked… The taste and texture send me running away in
horror. I don’t recall be tied to my high chair and force-fed broccoli as a
child. No memory of having been run over by a broccoli truck. No neighbors
who
were evil, child-snatching, broccoli farmers. I just don’t like it.
After arriving at this topic, I chatted with some of my fellow
chefs, and came up with similar stories. Chef Kelly McClay, dean of the Academy
of Culinary Arts, would hardly be considered a phobic eater. Foie Gras, Tripe
Sweetbreads (thymus gland of cow) – not a problem. She has ventured to try Fugu
(as have I), a Japanese puffer fish that, if not properly prepared, can kill you
(a reason for phobias there). I made the mistake one day of having her try
something prepared by my class that contained raw garlic. Unless my resume is
fully up to date, I will never repeat that faux pas. Some food aversions are the
results have having been served poorly prepared or even worse spoiled foods.
Fear also drives people from foods. Last fall, anyone ordering a spinach salad
would seem to be a culinary daredevil.
Although even Chefs shun certain foods there are those foods that
bring back warm memories. Certain times of the year when specific foodstuffs are
at their peek Chefs will act like little kids on Christmas morning wanting to be
the first of that years crop.
A
common favorite among chefs in springtime is Asparagus. When I first moved to
western Colorado I had friends take me for a drive on back roads to explore the
magnificent vistas when they suddenly pulled over and started shrieking with
delight wild asparagus was growing along the irrigation ditches. The tender
stalks were such a change from the commercially grown varietal that tends to be
woody and fibrous. I became an instant convert and each spring I search for the
first tender shoots to savor in any form. When asking chefs for a favorite meal
one answer occurs with surprising frequency. No it’s not Filet Mignon, Lobster
or Caviar (although, I enjoy all of the above), but the lowly yard-bird. Roast
chicken more precisely perfectly roasted chicken. Simple yes but a perfectly
roasted chicken is one of gastronomies pure pleasures. Tender juicy and full of
flavor the smell of roasting chicken could cause
whiplash
at a chef’s convention.
Finding joy in food, whether it is simple dishes, such as roast
chicken or grilled asparagus on a sunny spring afternoon, or exquisitely
prepared Foie gras or Rack of lamb is what it means to be a food lover. Find the
foods you like and embrace and revel their tastes and textures, but be open
minded and search for new tastes you maybe surprised at what you enjoy if you
put aside aversions and phobias and embrace food with the joy of a child.
The following are recipes for Perfect Roasted Chicken Grilled Asparagus and
Scallop salad. Roasted beet Salad with walnuts and buttermilk blue cheese.
Until Next Month Bon
Appétit. |
Perfect Roast Chicken
1 5-6 pound free-range chicken
1 Bunch thyme
2 Sprigs rosemary
8 Cloves garlic
1 Lemon
1 Orange
½ Bunch parsley
Kosher salt
Fresh ground black pepper
8 Ounces unsalted butter
Mirepoix:
Rough cut (1 onion half bunch celery and 2 carrots cleaned and cut I large
chunks)
Roux
2 Tablespoons flour
2 Cups chicken stock
¼ Cup sherry
Preheat oven to 425°. Chop half the
herbs and mix with softened butter. Lift skin of chicken and smear herb butter
underneath. Place remaining herbs and citrus in cavity. Place mire poix in
roasting pan. Place chicken on top. Cook for 50 minutes basting every ten
minutes. Remove chicken to platter. Cover loosely with foil. Let chicken rest
before slicing. Place roasting pan over low burner, add 2 tablespoons flour.
Stir with wooden spoon to make roux. Add 2 cups chicken stock. Whisk well. Let
simmer 5 minutes. Add ¼ cup sherry strain and serve with chicken.
Roasted Beet Salad
3 Red beets
3 Gold beets
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Wash beets. Rub with olive oil, salt
and pepper. Wrap in foil roast at 400° for 45 minutes until tender. Let cool
slightly. With hands, pull skin off beets. Let cool and slice. Arrange on salad
plate in circle, alternating red and gold. Place mixed greens in center. Drizzle
with lemon vinaigrette. Top with toasted walnuts and buttermilk-blue cheese.
Lemon Vinaigrette
¾ Cup olive oil
Juice from 3 lemons
Salt and pepper
Chopped fresh parsley
Mix all ingredients, drizzle over beets
Asparagus Salad
3 Bunches asparagus, trimmed and
peeled
5 Tablespoons olive oil, plus
Kosher salt, pepper
1 Tablespoon melted butter
16 large sea scallops
Ciabbata bread
Toss asparagus with 1 tablespoon olive
oil, kosher salt, pepper and 1 tablespoon, melted butter. Roast at 375° for 8
minutes or grill over medium high heat. Lightly season scallops with salt and
pepper. Over high heat, sauté in pan. Add 4 tablespoons olive oil. Sear scallops
until golden brown on both sides. Place asparagus on plate. Place 4 scallops,
per person, on top of asparagus. Drizzle with orange vinaigrette. Serve with
grilled ciabbata bread.
Orange Vinaigrette
Juice and zest from 2 oranges
½ Cup olive oil
1 Teaspoon chopped thyme
2 Tablespoons chopped parsley
1 Shallot minced
1 Ounce champagne vinegar
Salt and pepper to
taste |