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I am
back. Sorry for the
missing column last
month.
Things got a little
backlogged while trying
to get out the new
Cape May Magazine
column. (Shameless plug
time.) If you want more
recipes and culinary
rambling, check out Cape
May Magazine, where you
can actually see what
the dishes are supposed
to look like. Sorry, the
technology is not there
yet to let you see how
they taste.
Time to get back to
talking about food that
I love. There are very
few foods I don’t enjoy
– never trust a skinny
chef – but one thing I
love more than others is
cheese. And the stinkier
the better.
One of my favorite meals
on an evening off is
cheese, good bread and a
bottle of wine. Throw in
a few olives, roasted
peppers and some cured
meats or sausages and I
am in Bohemian Heaven.
Fare like that used to
be considered farmers or
peasant food. Maybe, but
the peasants eat real
food from the land and
that is the real
backbone of the
epicurean world.
To put cheese in
perspective, two of my
all time favorite food
quotes revolve around “fromage.”
Charles DeGaulle said
“How can You expect to
govern a country that
has 246 types of
cheese.”
And the great American
chef and food pioneer
James Beard remarked,
“Any cheese that needs
refrigerating is not
worth eating.”
As for the first quote,
may France be in
political turmoil
forever as long as they
continue to produce
wonderful cheeses from
simple young Chevre
(goat cheese), creamy
fat laden brie to
intense and powerful
blues, such as Roquefort
and St.Augur, as well as
many others such as
St.André with a
butterfat
content so high that
each wheel should be
accompanied by a list of
local cardiologists.
Morbier is a cousin of
gruyere with a
distinctive line of ash
running through it and a
strong nutty flavor
which begs to be
consumed with fresh
pears and merlot - the
real kind not the massed
produced Kool-Ade
variety that has invaded
this country in recent
years. I can go on
forever (friends and
family will attest that
I can and do).
The second quote refers
to the American habit of
serving cheeses cold.
This is an insult to the
cow, sheep or goat that
donated her precious
milk and to the time and
skill of the cheese
artisan who crafted it.
Let cheese come to room
temperature. Taste the
difference between a
piece of cheese
straight from the fridge
and one that has been
allowed to sit for
10-20 minutes. The
flavors open like a
flower on a warm spring
day.
There are a many great
cheeses around the world
with different uses and
flavor profiles. Some
of my favorites:
Garrotxa (an aged
Spanish goat cheese);
Cabrales, a maple leaf
wrapped bleu from Spain
with strong intense
flavors that matches the
wines from that region.
Any of the Truffle
cheeses from Italy are a
good choice especially
when imbibed with a
glass of big, bold
Barolo and a loaf of
ciabbatta bread. Creamy
mountain Gorgonzola’s
which have been produced
in the same manner since
897 A.D. rank high on my
cheese list. Also,
Pecorinos, Riccotta, and
salata-ripe Taleggio.
Even England, which is
much maligned in the
world of gastronomy,
gives us the noble
Cheddar and Stilton, the
“king of cheeses.” And
what about: Kashkavili
and Feta’s from the
Balkans, Raclette and
Emmentaler from
Switzerland? Danish
Fontina. Goudas (smoked
and plain) and Edam from
Holland.
I could travel the world
eating nothing but
cheese. The varieties of
flavors hitting my
palate would be more
excessive than the
numbers on Donald
Trump’s
bank statement. Then, I
could come back to
America and sample ever
increasing varietals of
domestic artisan cheeses
such as Maytag and Point
Reyes Bleus; Cheddars
from New York and
Vermont and the Pacific
Northwest. Let’s not
forget Wisconsin. This
state alone produces
enough types of cheese
to make a Frenchman
jealous.
I haven’t even mentioned
German Cambozola or
cheeses of the
Mediterranean and
middle-east, where
cheese is said to have
originated thousands of
years ago by accident
when a traveler on a
journey through the
desert put his milk
ration in a container
made from sheep’s
stomach
( Pre-Wal-Mart era. He
couldn’t just buy a
thermos) and the rennet,
combined with milk and
the heat of the desert,
separated the curds and
whey. Thus, the first
cheese was born. And
cheese – the most
ancient of foods and
milks – leaps towards
immortality.
Like with wine, when
people ask; “What are
the best cheeses,” my
reply is; “The ones you
enjoy.”
So, go to your cheese
monger and sample some
new varieties. Until
next month, bon appétit. |