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Autumn,
to most, signals the end
of summer and the
shortening of days, and,
therefore, winter cannot
be far behind.
As a chef, I enjoy this
time of year for several
reasons. First and
foremost, it is actually
comfortable to be in a
kitchen and cook. The
cooler weather makes it
enjoyable to eat again;
the Jersey shore heat
and humidity can destroy
a person’s appetite
quicker than an offer of
a free California
spinach salad.
 Fall is one of my
favorite times for food.
Flavors can be a little
more robust. Stews and
soup can warm the
insides as your outsides
feel the first chills in
the air. Fall produce is
also wonderful. Two of
my favorites are
butternut squash and
figs.
Around Cape Island figs
are abundant right now.
They are great to eat
straight off the tree.
The versatility of figs
never ceases to
tantalize my palate.
Besides enjoying them
fresh or in the
childhood classic Newton
–Yes, I
 enjoy fig
Newton’s with a glass of
milk. It is a classic
snack for old or young
alike – Figs are
wonderful. Cooked, they
figure prominently in
Italian and
Mediterranean cooking
and grow around the
world. In the United
States most people are
familiar with the
varieties that grow in
California most notably
the Black Mission
variety. These are dark
on the outside and juicy
red on the inside with
intense flavors.
Around Cape May, the
white fig is most
commonly green on the
outside with pale fruit
and ruby center,
although not as sweet as
the mission fig they are
delightful off the tree
or made in to jams,
sauces or desserts.
For one of my favorite
appetizers, split the
fig on one side. Stuff
with gorgonzola or your
favorite bleu cheese,
then wrap in a thin
slice of prosciutto and
bake in a 450-degree
oven for 6-8 minutes
until cheese just starts
to melt and the prosciutto is crispy.
Serve as an appetizer
with port wine syrup or
reduced balsamic vinegar
or as an accompaniment
to a salad.
One of my favorite fall
meals is good cheese,
crusty bread and a
hearty bottle of red
wine. When the figs are
ripe, I like to make fig
jam to accompany the
cheese board. The rich
and sweet flavors can
make the cheese course
into a refreshingly
different dessert course
as well.
 For an actual dessert,
I love the French
country classic clafoutis, which is a
simple batter with fruit
in it, baked in
individual dishes. It is
remarkable in its
simplicity. The cake
part is there and
integral to the dish,
but it allows the fruit
to take center stage and
provide a simple ending
to an autumnal meal.
My other favorite
produce item this time
of year is butternut
squash – a relatively
ugly looking vegetable
on the outside that
belies the rich treat
hidden within. The
golden orange flesh,
when roasted, becomes
tender and the hidden
sweetness emerges
through light caramelization which
allows it to stand up to
lamb, as well as
lighter-flavored meats
such as veal and
chicken. It also stands
alone as a soup. Its
versatility is almost
chameleon-like as it
adapts to whatever it is
being served with.
Two items that really
enhance butternut squash
are beurre noisette or
brown butter and sage.
The sage needs to be
fresh. Don’t try and use
the musty-flavored jar
that has been sitting on
your spice shelf since
last Thanksgiving. The
fresh variety provides
an earthy tone that
raises the squash. When
you add the delicate
hazelnut taste of
lightly browned butter,
the flavors sing on the
palate in a voice that
can only come from
angels.
 Butternut works as a
filling for pastas a
flavoring agent for
risottos or, in one of
my favorite twists,
using a small dice of
butternut, cook it
risotto-style and serve
it as a side dish for
roasted veal or even
your Thanksgiving
turkey.
Enjoy the following
recipes and the emerging
flavors of fall. It’s
time to put away your
beachwear and reenter
your kitchen and cook.
Until next month, Bon
Appétit. |
Fig
Jam