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Culinary focus in the United States has had a definite Euro-centric slant. In
recent years Asian cuisines have become more popular and mainstream. But one
Asian flavor is still largely misunderstood in America. Curry. The fluorescent
yellow curries of the past made from jar curry powder are about as authentic as
Ragu is to a true Italian spaghetti sauce. These have thankfully made way for
Thai, Vietnamese and true Indian curries. Indian curries vary widely from
region to region. Spice powders are often used, but the spices are most often
roasted and ground together according to family recipes. The aforementioned neon
yellow curry is Madras Curry and was developed to be shipped back to England for
the curry addicted colonial masters.
Here is a simplified Indian Curry
Primer which illustrates the major difference in
 Eastern
and Western culinary traditions. Most Indian Cuisine is influenced by the Hindu
philosophy of Ayurveda derived from the Sanskrit words ayus, meaning span of
life and veda, meaning knowledge. This philosophy recognizes that different
substances affect the body and mind in different ways. Combining the same
ingredients in different proportions will have separate effects on the mind and
body (I wonder what the effects of Twinkies and McDonald’s French fries have on
the mind and body.)
This philosophy is shared with two
southeastern Asian countries that also are known for curries –Thailand and
Vietnam.
Ayurveda characterizes food and drugs three ways: by taste; potency; and
function. The basic tastes are: sweet, sour, salty pungent, bitter, and
astringent. Potency is defined as the action the spice has on the body. An
example of function would be the fact that figs and dates are both sweet, but
figs have a purgative
property.
The most important step in making curries is in choosing the fat oil in which to
fry the spices. This is called ghee otherwise known as clarified butter. The
base, if non-vegetarian, is always stock usually made while simmering the meat
or meat on bone in the curry.
The second base, or thickening agent, could consist of onions, nuts or coconut
milk. Flour is not used for thickening in Indian cooking since it does not
contribute to flavor. 
To complicate matters even more, the same ingredient may function differently in
various recipes. For example, onions lightly fried or pureed will thicken, but
if
browned may function more for taste and color.
The most complex part is in adding the spices which is dependant on which spices
you choose; the sequence in which they are added; whether they are fried or
boiled, and for how long. Other components include souring agent (like lime,
green mango yogurt and tomato,) and the coloring agents (tumeric, saffron, red
tomato and garam masala – if fried for 1 minute in hot oil.) Spices also have
two other roles: taste and aroma. This part confused me at first since all
spices have tastes and aroma. But understanding how some are more dominant in
one area than another teaches you how to customize your curry.
Don’t be caught in a curry conundrum. Play with the spices and see how the end
result changes. The true joy of cooking curries comes from a highly personal
expression through food. This month curry favor with your guest by
cooking the Indian Vindaloo or the Thai inspired curries. Enhance them with
Rote bread, cucumber raita and green chutney. Until next month, Bon Appétit!
Lamb
Curry Vindaloo
¼ Cup red curry
1 Teaspoon cumin seeds
6 Cloves
1 Cinnamon stick
10 Peppercorns
½ Star anise
1 Teaspoon poppy seeds
2 Tablespoon chopped ginger
6 Cloves garlic
1 Tablespoon tamarind
4 Teaspoon cider vinegar
1/3 Cup oil
3 Onions chopped
1½ Pounds lamb stew meat
½ Teaspoon palm sugar
Grind all spices with vinegar. Rub
meat
with ¼ of prepared spice mix. Marinate 15 minutes. Heat oil in pan. Sauté
onions 15 minutes until brown.
Add remaining spice paste. Cook five minutes (add water if necessary).
Add lamb. Cook 5 minutes. Add 4 cups water, salt and palm sugar. Cook over low
heat until tender.
Masoor Dal Red Lentils
2 Cups red lentils
10 Cloves garlic
1 Medium onion, diced
3 Tomatoes, chopped
1 Tablespoons ginger, chopped
3 Green chiles, chopped
1 Teaspoon ground coriander
½ Teaspoon cumin ground
1 Teaspoon red chile powder
2 Teaspoon lime juice
1 Teaspoon butter
Wash lentils. Soak 30 minutes.
Cook lentils in 7 cups boiling water. Bring back to boil. Add salt and
all ingredients, but oil and two cloves garlic. Cook for 30 minutes. Add lime
juice. Mash until smooth. Fry garlic in oil 1 minute, add to Dal. Serve.
Cucumber Raita
1 Cup yogurt
1 Cup cucumber, peeled and chopped
Salt and pepper
Dash cumin
½ Teaspoon sugar
Dash paprika
1 Teaspoon cilantro, chopped
Mix all ingredients. Chill.
Tomato Raita
1 Cup yogurt
1 Tomato, chopped
2 Tablespoons minced onion
Salt, pepper, cumin
Mix garnish with cilantro
Green
Chutney
1 Cup mint leaves
1 Cup cilantro leaves
2 Jalapeños
1 Onion chopped
Cumin, salt, pepper
½ Teaspoon sugar
2 Teaspoons lime juice
Puree all ingredients, except lime juice. Add
juice. Mix well. Cover refrigerate lasts 2 days
Roti
2 Cups cream of wheat
2/3 Cup warm water
4 Teaspoons oil
Mix cream of wheat and water to form dough.
Add oil. Knead 5-8 minutes. Rest one hour. Break into 12 pieces.
Roll on floured bowl. Cook on flat griddle. Cook turning twice. Press
with spoon if necessary.
Green
Thai Curry
4 Chicken breasts, sliced
2 Cups coconut milk
1 Onion cut in squares
1 Red pepper cut in squares
1 Green pepper cut in squares
2 Tablespoons green curry paste
4 Tablespoons fish paste
2 Tablespoons chopped basil
1 Tablespoon palm sugar
Lime zest
In small amount oil fry curry paste 3
minutes. Add vegetables. Cook one minute. Add coconut milk. Bring to boil.
Simmer. Add chicken. Simmer until done. Adjust seasoning.
Shrimp
Lemon Grass Curry
2 Tablespoons peanut oil
2 Cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 Stalks lemon grass, peeled, cut into pieces
2 Red peppers, julienned
4 Tablespoons yellow curry paste
3 Tablespoons fish sauce
4 Tablespoons yellow curry paste
2 Cups coconut milk
1½ Pounds shrimp
½ Cup basil
½ Cup cilantro
Heat peanut oil. Add garlic and lemongrass.
Sauté until golden. Add pepper. Sauté one minute. Add curry paste. Sauté one
minute. Add fish sauce. Add coconut milk. Simmer five minutes. Add shrimp. Cook
until done. Toss with cilantro and basil.
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