|
When you’re
130 years old, you start showing your
age. Your petticoat starts to droop a
wee bit. Your lower regions begin to
creak and your parts start to sag a
little. But if you’ve got spirit, you
adopt the Fred Astaire /Ginger Rogers
approach to life. “You pick yourself up.
Dust yourself off. And Start all over
again.” And that is exactly what the
Chalfonte Hotel
does each summer.
Located at the corner of Howard Street
and Sewell Avenue, she shakes the dust
off, readjusts her petticoat and opens
her arms wide, welcoming guests back for
another summer in Cape May. A summer Chalfonte-style.
You know, a grande
dame never compromises her standards.
The times may have changed, but this
lady still preserves a genteel life void
of distractions. The Chalfonte offers
guests, staff and visitors a chance to
go back to a simpler time
and she stands proud of the fact that
the rooms have no air conditioning, no
television, no telephone service, no
Jacuzzi. What she does offer is the best
in Southern hospitality – good food, a
chance to stay a spell and rock on the
spacious wrap-around porch and a chance
to learn the fine art of conversation.
Her allure is
strong and once hooked, people keep
coming back. Take for example the
volunteers who come from all over the
U.S. every spring and fall to
participate
in the Chalfonte Volunteer Work
Weekends. Now in its 23rd
year, the volunteers help get the great
lady ready and fresh for another season.
Folks like “Mac”
MacDonald haven’t missed a year yet. Mac
is from Freehold, NJ, holds a PhD in
electrical engineering and tends to work
on Lady Chalfonte’s plumbing when he
comes to town. The two are intimately
acquainted that way. Mac even looks like
a disgruntled lover when we chat with
him one rainy Saturday afternoon.
His long, lean
body rests on a chair on the wrap-around
porch. He looks about him. “I always
arrive a little bit aggravated. And I
always leave just a little more
aggravated. The job is vastly greater
than the work we put into it, but I do
as
much as I can, as often as I can.”
Oh? She’s a little
needy, is she? Our question is, why do
you keep coming back? He owned a
Victorian house once and became so
preoccupied with renovating it, he
eventually sold it. Work Weekends at the
Chalfonte allow him the pleasure of
working on an old house and the
satisfaction of knowing he can walk away
from it. But he doesn’t seem to walk
away for very long. There are eight,
sometimes nine, Work Weekends a year.
Mac usually attends six or more of them.
He especially likes the spring Work
Weekends when there is so much to do and
so little time to do it. He never
returns in the summer for a visit – “too
many people.” But he has brought his
children along with him over the years
to help get her in shape. Now, the
children are all grown and either have
little time and or living too far way to
join him.
He looks up at the
Chalfonte as clouds begin to darken
again. “The building is really beautiful
and Cape May is beautiful,” he says and
we know that he’ll be
back
again. Her allure is just too strong for
him to stay away.
Betty Merchak is
equally smitten. This is her 29th
time – her 16th year coming
to Work Weekends and she has kept a
diary of every room she has stayed in,
chronicling the work which was done to
each room. “I started coming here in the
80s with my girlfriends,” she says. She
kept coming back when the girlfriends
found other ways to spend their weekends
and when she married her husband John,
he joined her and now, they come to the
Chalfonte together.
“I love meeting
old friends (who are also long-time
participants) and it’s such a feeling of
accomplishment to know that I’m helping
to keep the Chalfonte going. The first
time I came to a Work Weekend, I was
amazed at what it was all about.”
People who come to
the Chalfonte, be they volunteers,
guests or staff all say the same things.
They love getting to know Ann LeDuc (who
owns the Chalfonte, along with her
partner Judy Bartella). “Coming here is
like coming home to family,” said one
guest. “A family that doesn’t fight.”
And if you pick up
her petticoats just a smidge and take a
peek underneath, there have been a lot
of family members throughout the years,
literally and
figuratively beginning with Col. Henry
Sawyer, a Civil War hero, who built the
Chalfonte as a boarding house called,
appropriately enough, Sawyer’s Boarding
House in 1875. By 1876, he’d changed the
name to the Chalfonte (which means cool
fountain in French) Hotel. In 1878, (the
same year as the Great Fire which
reduced the city’s hotel occupancy from
2200 to 200 in just one night), Sawyer
decided to build an addition to the
boarding house, thus more than doubling
the rooms from 18 to 37. Sawyer sold the
Chalfonte in 1888.
Between 1888 and
1911 the hotel changed hands six times
and was sold at Sheriff’s sale twice.
Fortunately for the Chalfonte, the
Satterfield family of Richmond, Virginia
stepped in and put a stop to all that
nonsense. By the time the Satterfields
bought the hotel, one of the owners had
added yet another addition increasing
her capacity by 23 more rooms and
enlarging her dining room.
With
the Satterfields came stability, sort
of. The Chalfonte finally had owners who
loved her for what she was – a grande
dame with certain temperamental quirks.
Susie Satterfield and her husband
Calvin, Sr. bought the Chalfonte in
1911. Mary (Meenie) Satterfield and her
husband Calvin Jr. bought her in 1920.
Calvin Jr. proved not to be the best
businessman in the whole wide world and
nearly lost her to Sheriff’s sale in
1933 when mom stepped in and bought her
back for $200. Calvin turned around and
bought it back from his mother’s heirs
in 1940. Calvin Jr. died in 1943 and his
wife Meenie Satterfield ran it until
1973.
Meanwhile, back at
the hotel, Anne LeDuc spent almost all
of her summers as
a little girl at the hotel. Her mother
was a great friend of Calvin Jr.’s. When
she got to be a bit older, she worked
summers at the hotel and in 1973 she and
her colleague Judy Bartella took over
the management of the hotel. Ten years
later, Meenie was thinking about selling
the hotel to some people who needed a
boarding house for summer help. Anne and
Judy approached Meenie about selling the
hotel to them instead and it was a done
deal, as they say. Neither Anne nor Judy
nor Meenie nor anyone else associated
with hotel wanted to see it put into the
hands of “strangers.”
The Chalfonte
traditions and family connections don’t
end there, by any means. When the
Satterfields came north for the summer,
they brought their staff, including
Clementine Young, who worked as the head
chambermaid at the Chalfonte for 60
years and who brought with her, her
young daughter Helen.
Helen
Dickerson went on to become the head
chef for the Chalfonte. She started
working in the kitchen in 1920. Her
recipes for Southern Fried Chicken,
Buttermilk Biscuits and dinner rolls
have been sought after by the likes of
Bon Appétite magazine and Phil
Donahue. Eventually, Cissy Finley Grant,
Public Relations Director for the hotel
in 1986, followed her around the
kitchen and stopped Helen mid-point to
ask her how much salt, how much butter
and how can we reduce this recipe from
feeding 150-200 to ah, I don’t know, say
4-6 people. For someone who had never
before measured anything, it was a hard
road to hoe, but they did it. The result
was I Just Quit Stirrin’ When The
Tastin’s Good, now in its third
printing.
Helen died in 1990
but her daughters continue her Southern
recipes. Dot Burton and Lucille Thompson
continue to rein over the Chalfonte
kitchen with the help of Chef Chris
Cleary. That makes 86 years of one
family cooking the old fashioned way. We
could be wrong, but we didn’t see a
blender, a Cuisinart or even a small
baking pan in the kitchen which has been
serving guests for lo these 130 years.
Some of the guests
have been staying at the hotel for 60 or
70 years. There is an archived box of
letters, dating back to the 50s of
guests writing to Meenie Satterfield
(sometimes addressed to her Richmond
home, inquiring about reservations for
the coming summer.)
The lobby and
foyers are filled with pictures of
Helen, Dot, Lucille, Meenie, Susie and
of staff who have worked at the hotel
throughout the years. Once
someone becomes seduced by the
Chalfonte, they rarely leave her for
long. Like old lovers, they feel the
need to find some excuse, any excuse
will do, to keep coming back.
Such was the case
with Linda McCrary of Tahlequah,
Oklahoma. Linda first came to the
Chalfonte in 1982 by way of Oklahoma,
via Massachusetts. Fifteen years as a
social worker had gotten to her and she
took to the highway, ending up in
Massachusetts. Her goal was to drive
down the coastal highway all the way to
Florida. While at her first stop,
someone told her about the Chalfonte and
decided to give her a try.
“I said to myself,
this is a place I want to come back to.”
And come back she did. The next year she
got a job at the Chalfonte and worked,
off and on there until 1996. We are
sitting at a table at the back of the
Magnolia Room, the
Chalfonte’s
main dining room. It is a room which
Lynn named when she was public relations
director for the hotel. As a graphic
artist she felt the Chalfonte needed a
little “branding.” So, the formerly
named Main Dining Room is now the
Magnolia Room. The cabaret room is the
Henry Sawyer Room. The bar is the King
Edward Room.
It is now 2006,
why has she come back? To help celebrate
the Chalfonte’s 130th
birthday – a celebration which took
place in early June. And to help get her
gussied up for the coming summer season.
Linda has just assisted the other
volunteers organize the Children’s
Dining Room (all children under eight
years of age are encouraged to eat in
this room). Throughout the years, she
has come back for visits, sometimes
bringing her nieces along for the
experience.
“It’s like instant
family here,” she says, “And it’s so
interesting to see the new people who
come to stay here now, especially when
they get it.”
Which makes us
wonder, what is it that they get? What
is getting it?
Debra
Donahue, director of public relations
and marketing for the hotel, says, “The
Chalfonte is kind of like Fawlty
Towers meets the Golden Girls
head on fast.” “Getting it,” she
explains, is getting the fact that it’s
better to be on vacation without
televisions, telephones and play
station. “Getting it,” Debra says, “is
that the a.c. that people want is not
air conditioning but Actual Conversation
and they get the fact that the value in
sitting on the porch and reading is
greater than watching a rerun. These are
touchstones for people of our generation
who have never lived in a simpler time
but can appreciate what a simpler time
must have been like. They get that it’s
a quirky place. A quirky microcosm and
incredible, if you take the time to get
to know it.”
Like all Southern
ladies, the Chalfonte continues to
celebrate her 130th birthday
in the grande style to which she has
become accustom – by welcoming all who
come to visit. We here at CapeMay.com
wish her a happy birthday with the hope
of many more to come. |