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In
1866, Cape Island had 22 hotels,
including an African-American hotel on
Lafayette Street.
That same year,
Jacob F. Cake was brought up from
Washington, D.C. to manage
Columbia House. He later moved over
to
Congress Hall. Congress Hall,
wanting to keep up with times, added a
new wing onto the hotel at Perry Street.
Civil War hero Henry Sawyer became the
proprietor of Ocean House in 1867. Eight
years later he built the
Chalfonte Hotel on Howard Street.
The Era of Reconstruction had begun for the nation and Cape Island
was no exception. Prominent Philadelphia
and South Jersey entrepreneurs spent the
post-Civil War years acquiring as much
property and as many cottages as they
could, among them, William
Sewell,
Richard D. Wood, John Wanamaker
(co-founder of Sea Grove in 1875, later
renamed the Borough of Cape May Point),
and E. C. Knight. This consortium of
businessmen founded a yacht club in 1871
and encouraged President Grant to make
Cape Island his summer home. Grant
instead opted for Long Branch but 18
years later, Wanamaker was more
successful in luring another president,
Benjamin Harrison to Cape May Point for
the summer.
On August 31, 1869 a great fire took the steam out of the bustling
island community. The fire, thought to
have been started by Peter Boynton, the
proprietor of the Oriental Shop on
Washington Street, began at 2:30 a.m.
located on Washington Street between
Ocean and Decatur streets. The
conflagration destroyed everything in
the two block area of Washington Street,
f rom Ocean Street to Jackson Street,
including the United Sates Hotel, built
in 1852 and the site of its own
suspicious fires over the past decade or
so. Also destroyed was the New Atlantic
Hotel. The United Sates Hotel was never
rebuilt but the Atlantic Hotel was. It
reopened in the summer of 1870.
So strong was the railroad’s influence that Cape May rebuilt itself
without skipping a beat and by the
summer of 1870. One reason for the
speedy recovery is that with the
railroad came outside investors and new
money to rebuild. The fire of 1878,
however, would be a whole other story.
“The railroad continued to drive the boom and it would take more
than two-city-block fire to slow it
down. Cape May was fast becoming a city
that was owned by outside cottagers and
investors. The majority of the citizens
was pleased with the railroad expansion
and saw no end to the boom. The West
Jersey Railroad gained more and more
control of the ‘island’ as regular
visitors referred to the resort.”
In the summer of 1870, 25 more cottages were built as well as the
4-story high, New Atlantic Hotel. Built
at a cost of $100,000, it operated under
“strict temperance principles.” The
summer season proved to be a successful
one, helped by a heat wave that
oppressed city dwellers forcing to buy
an excursion ticket to Cape May island
so they could preamble the city and see
what changes had come from the 1869
fire.
Also in 1870, the State Legislature appointed a special board of
commissioners to represent Cape May’s
railroad interests. The board of
commissioners acted completely
independent of elected city officials.
City Council, resenting the power of the
board, spearheaded a special election in
1872 designed to “throw the bums’ out.”
Unfortunately for them, the election had
the opposite result. Not only did the
commissioners keep their seats, in the
next city-wide election, the two council
members who opposed the board were
themselves thrown out.
From 1870 to 1875, when the commission was abolished by an
amendment to the city’s charter,
railroad interests shaped the landscape
of Cape May.
In 1873 the failure of several important banks on the east coast
drove a financial panic through the
heart of the investment sectors and
railroad boom came to a crashing halt.
Investment money dried up therefore new
construction stopped. This, plus the
devastation of the
Great Fire of 1878, led to the
demise of Cape May as a top-ten
destination spot. Anyone who did have
venture capital invested it in Atlantic
City, which, in the late 1870s, had
become South Jersey’s new crown jewel.
One exception to that was the construction in 1876 of a new and
improved Summer Station, called Grant
Street Station. Winter
Station was at
the intersection of Jackson and
Lafayette streets. In 1876 the cost of
an excursion ticket was $2.50. For a
family servant, it was $2.00 and a
season ticket could be purchased for
$50.00.
In 1876, railroad e xecutives, fearing competition not only from the up and coming Atlantic City but also the
1876 Centennial Exhibition which was to
take place in Philadelphia that summer,
printed a brochure singing Cape May’s
praises and distributed it among
exhibition visitors in an attempt to
lure them down to the resort for an
excursion.
The summer of 1878 was one of Cape May’s busiest. The wealthy were
flocking to the seaside resort to escape
the ravages of a yellow fever epidemic
which had hit the cities, ultimately
claiming over 14,000 lives. Train depots
in Cape May were even busier than ever.
“When the trains arrived, dozens of hotel coaches would greet
passengers as they stepped onto the
depot platform. Confusion reigned as the
coach drivers endeavored to out shout
each other and the steam locomotives
calling out the names of the hotels that
had hired them to pick up boarders who
arrived both with and without
reservations.” – Summer City
by the Sea, Emil R. Salvini
Construction on the west side of town was flourishing because of
the success of Summer Station. One of
the new kids on the Grant Street block
was The Arlington House (now
The
Hotel Alcott). This historic property, Cape
May's second-oldest operating hotel,
debuted in 1878 as The Arlington House.
The 55-room facility was considered a
first-class resort hotel and attracted
many of the summer guests due to its
proximity to the railroad station and
the beach. Just as an aside, Louisa May
Alcott, summered in Cape May with her
family from Germantown, PA. and, as the
legend goes, stayed at The Arlington
House. The season ended as happily as it
had begun. By November most cottagers
and hotel proprietors had already gone
home for the winter and were looking
forward to the summer of ’79.
The Great Fire of 1878 began on a
very windy, November 9 morning at Ocean
House on Perry Street – located just
one-half block from the beach. By the
time the fire was contained nearly 12
hours later, about forty acres, situated
between Congress on the west, Washington
on the north, Ocean Street on the east,
and the beach on the south of property
was destroyed. The total loss was
estimated at about $400,000 and included
the destruction of Columbia House, Ocean
House, Congress Hall, Centre House,
Atlantic House, Merchants House and
reduced Cape May's count of hotel rooms
from 2200 to 200 in a single night. This
time around, railroad money could not
save Cape May from a downward economic
spiral. The fire marked the end of the
large hotel era and the beginning of a
more intimate cottage-style
architectural trend – and almost 100
years later this surge of construction
in the middle of the Victorian era
helped land Cape May its current
National Historic Landmark status.
“The fire of 1878 coincided with and probably contributed to the
steady economic decline of Cape May City
as a major resort during the 1870s. The
Star of the Cape reported that
many ‘idle men’ roamed the city, unable
to find employment. In response, W.B.
Miller, a former mayor and large hotel
owner, called a citizens meeting to
discuss the resort’s decline,
particularly in comparison to the
continued prosperity of Atlantic City.
The citizen’s meeting blamed local
government for levying high taxes and
refusing to grant liquor licenses to
hoteliers such as W. B. Miller. The
citizens group also faulted the West
Jersey Railroad for not granting free
passes…or low excursion rates…” Cape
May County, New Jersey: The Making of an
American Resort Community, Jeffrey
M. Dorwart.
On the opposite side of the argument was the temperance
organization. Temperance members blamed
all the city’s woes on liquor.
Antiliquor sentiments resulted in the
founding of Sea Grove (later Cape May
Point) in 1875, the county’s third
oldest resort community behind Cape May
City and Beesley’s Point. Founded by
Philadelphia businessmen and
Presbyterian leaders Alexander Whilldin
and John Wanamaker, the Sea Grove
Association drew up a code of conduct
which banned all liquor and amusements.
But meanwhile, folks who lived in that
isolated part of the island needed to
get back and forth to the city.
The primary form of public conveyance was the horse-car railroad.
Owned by Whilldin, the Cape May City
Passenger Railroad Company serviced Sea
Grove to Cape May and ran along a track
which followed the Cape Island Turnpike
(now Sunset Boulevard) for a fee of
10-cents, round-trip 15-cents. All
monies went to the turnpike company.
By 1879, horses were out, steam was in. This coincided with the
launch of the elegant sidewheel steamer
the Palace Steamer Republic, which took
six hours to cross the Delaware at a
cost of $1. Its maiden voyage was in
March of 1878. Although she retired in
1903, upstaged by the swifter and more
frequent railroad transport, in her
heyday she transported on average 2,500
passengers across the bay in sheer
luxury. Jonathon Cone, owner of the
Republic, therefore, demanded a more
sophisticated mode of transport once the
Republic anchored. The Delaware Bay and
Cape May Railroad (owned by Cone), took
over Whilldin’s operation in 1879 and
chose a more scenic and less expensive
route for his high-toned clientele. The
new steam car ran along the beach from
Sea Grove to Cape May City. In addition,
the train ran along Lighthouse Avenue
down Lincoln Avenue, along Chrystal to
Alexander at a mighty 10 mph.
By 1882 the DB&CM Railroad merged with Sewell’s Point Railroad.
Tracks were laid all the way from the
steamship landing to Sewell’s Point
(Poverty Beach).
The following excerpt from Joe Jordan’s book Cape May Point –The
Illustrated History: 1875 to the Present
articulates the evolution of
intra-island transportation.
“It’s 1879, and Cape May Point is getting a new steam-driven
trolley. Everybody is happy. No more
horse manure and no more slow motion,
the four-year-old horse-car railway is a
thing of the past. From now on it is
steam all the way….It’s now 1892, and
Cape May Point is getting a new electric
trolley. Everybody is glad to say
goodbye to the old-fashioned steam
trolleys. After all, they were jerky,
noisy, and dirty – all those coal
cinders getting in your eyes and throat.
…The fare is cheap, schedules are
frequent, service is better – everybody
is pleased with this brand new
ultra-modern local transportation, the
electric trolley.
Now it’s 1908, and nobody is pleased. The schedules are
erratic, trolleys don’t meet the trains,
and the tracks in Cape May Point are
downright hazardous.”
Storms were the main problem.
Tracks laid along the beachfront
sounded promising. The view was
spectacular but those very same tracks
were constantly being derailed prompting
the railroad companies to send hundred
of men out every time it rained to
repair them. Nor’easters were a problem.
High tides were a problem. Flooding was
a problem. By 1916, Cape May Point’s
commissioners petitioned the State
Public Utility Commission to force the
Delaware Bay, Cape May, and Sewell’s
Point Trolley Company (which had merged
with the Pennsylvania Railroad in 1901),
to fix the tracks, fix the trolleys and
guarantee prompt service. They didn’t or
they couldn’t and by 1917 public
transportation into the city came to an
end. The final run was made on October
14, 1916.
Meanwhile the big railroads – The Reading and the Pennsylvania
were, from the get-go, involved in a
knock-down, drag-out fight to finish for
domination, often running parallel lines
along the same route – or ripping the
tracks out. The result? The two lines
merged in 1893 to become the
Philadelphia-Reading Railroad which
immediately formed the Philadelphia and
Seashore Railroad under the guidance of
businessmen Logan Bullitt of
Philadelphia and James E. Taylor of Cape
May.
The merger, however, was just a signal of what was yet to come. The
emergence of the car as a new mode of
transportation soon led to the
extinction of the train as the primary
mode of transportation. In 1926 the Ben
Franklin Bridge opened and it was
downhill. In 1933 another merger took
place and the Pennsylvania Reading
Seashore Lines was the result.
But before World War II, city folk still took the train to get down
to Cape May just not as frequently.
June
28, 1930 saw the arrival in Cape May of
the first “Sun Tan and RA” Special from
Philadelphia. The first all-rail route
from Philadelphia was greeted with great
fanfare in Cape May. Queen May Sea II,
Sally Lou Ludlam presided over the
events in which railroad engineer Edward
Perkins of West Cape May, and conductor
Harry Steer of Rio Grande were honored
upon arrival.
“My grandfather Edward Perkins was an engineer on the line (The Sun
Tan Special) from Cape May to Camden.
His brother was a conductor.
Unfortunately I did not get to know my
grandfather as he died about the time I
was born. His photo is in the book from
Cape Savings (Cape May County: A
Pictorial History by Herbert M. Beitel
and Vance C. Enck) His brother was
Charles Perkins and they both lived in
West Cape May.” – William Thawley,
railroad enthusiast and the pharmacist
at Central Pharmacy (now the site of
Cotton Company).
Young people who did not drive or did not own a car especially
loved the train.
As a teenager, “I’d get on the train in Camden on a Friday
afternoon after school with my friend
Jimmy and we’d take the train to Cape
May. Sometimes we’d go back in the
baggage car and play tennis. I stay with
my aunts who lived above the movie
theater. Sometimes my parents would come
down on Saturday.” – Karl Suelke, whose
grandfather and father owned The Liberty
Theater, a movie theater at 506
Washington Street Mall.
In the late 20s and 30s, 17 trains a day came in and out of Cape
May, including the Sun Tan Special,
which served champagne and wine during
prohibition and the Fisherman’s Special,
which came in and out of Schellenger’s
Landing servicing the charter boats
waiting their arrival.
Thawley said he has timetables from the old Pennsylvania Reading
Seashore Line dating back to 1941 when
seven trains a day came through Cape May
Philadelphia and Camden. One timetable
shows a one way fare to the Broad Street
Station in Philadelphia cost $2.95.
During the spring of 1949, there were
only three trains to Camden and
Philadelphia and the one-way fare is now
3.60 to Broad Station one way. By the
fall of 1956, there were still three
trains a day and the one-way fare was
$2.93. By October of 1963 only one train
came through a day and the fare was
$3.73 one-way to Camden. The next
summer service was curtailed to three
trains per week, five into Cape May on
Friday and Saturday; three trips out of
Cape May on Sunday and the fare, on-way
to Camden was still $3.73.
“I remember the first year I stayed in Cape May past September
which turned into my first winter here.
That was in 1976. If it wasn’t for the
train, I don’t think I would have
stayed. But I always knew I was only a
train-ride away from the real world
(Philadelphia or New York). And the
Friday night card games in the back car
– you made sure you caught the early
train (out of Philadelphia) on Friday
and got a seat in the back car where the
most sociable people sat and where
spontaneous cocktail parties almost
always happened. I don’t know if I would
have stayed here that winter if I didn’t
know I could take the train when I
needed to.” – Vickie Tryon
Rail service, south of Tuckahoe, ended on a Saturday morning
October 10, 1983.
Read Part One of The Excursionists CLICK
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