In pondering this month’s column, several ideas crossed my mind, but I kept coming back to something I have wanted to write about for some time. Since it is a subject that evokes strong opinions on both sides of the meadow, I have avoided it until now. LAMB.
In the old west sheep ranchers and cattlemen were mortal enemies even the open plains weren’t big enough for both of them. Big Beef won that range war, and we are a nation of beefeaters. At home, on the other range, lamb is divided into two camps – those who love it, and those who go into convulsions at the mere thought of eating lamb. It used to be, in the earlier part of the 20th century, that most lamb consumed was actually mutton. Older animals of any species tend to be stronger in flavor. Lamb, even when young, has a distinctive flavor profile. In a country where the meat has been methodically raised to appeal to the masses (read bland), is there still a place for lamb?
Most restaurants serve imported New Zealand lamb; it tends to be more cost effective. I will never understand global economics it is beyond my comprehension that lamb shipped from the other side of the globe is cheaper than that raised in this country. It also tends to be smaller (read younger) and lighter in flavor. Having spent many years in Colorado, I am partial to lamb raised in that state. Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley also has some great lamb producers. Food should have character, the double-edged sword of mass production. Yes, lower prices, but in the quest to make more money in volume, the industry rushes the animals to market, worried more about how they can increase carcass weight than in producing a product that actually has a flavor profile.
How do you cook Lamb? Lamb requires patience and some skill to properly prepare. Lamb, when cooked by dry heat methods (searing roasting grilling), should be served between medium rare and medium for the best flavor profile.
It is telling that the French have one term when roasting lamb and that is rosé (basically between medium rare and medium). This allows the best flavor. Rare is too bloody and does not allow enough of the fat to be melted (fat is flavor). Well done dries the meat out too much giving it a livery taste and leathery texture.
What cut do you serve? The rack is the king of lamb cuts. When handled properly, the flavor is succulent and the meat melts in your mouth. Pan searing then roasting in the oven is my preferred cooking method. A light crust helps protect the delicate eye and enhance flavor. For grilling, loin lamb chops lightly marinated work well, and if you can find them – the Denver ribs, which are really riblets, compared to its porcine counterpart – are a grill masters dream. That leaves the leg, the shoulder and the shank to discuss.
The leg should be roasted slowly to melt the fat and trigger the Millard Reaction. The Maillard Reaction is the process where the proteins and amino acids react with the sugars (carbohydrates) this process occurs between 300 and 500 degrees Fahrenheit creating the browning effect on the outside of meat and creating the aromas that make roasting meat smell so good and taste even better. The shank and the shoulder work best with braising techniques to break down connective tissue to make tenderer. These cuts, as a result, will be served well done – which should appease those who absolutely won’t eat meat cooked medium or medium rare (also known as properly cooked).
After deciding on a cut and cooking technique, the next question is what should you serve with it and what flavorings and seasonings should be used? I do have one rule that is inviolable. Under NO circumstances can mint jelly be served in my presence. This is a barbaric practice that dates back to the dark ages of culinary knowledge in this country (the 1950’s) and probably originated in England (enough said).
Lamb’s strong flavor means that strong seasonings can be used. My favorites include rosemary, mustard, dried cherries and espresso grounds. You read that correctly. Coffee has unique flavor properties that I love to pair with lamb. The Italians have a product called Fruita di Mostarda, which is fruit preserved in mustard that, while potent, compliments lamb well.
For accompanying sauces, and as a beverage alongside, robust red wines work best. Merlot was long a favorite but the kool-aid varietals that are now common don’t work as well. Try a Chilean Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon or even a tannic Zinfandel instead.
This month don’t be sheepish and experiment with spring lamb. Try these recipes Braised Lamb Shank with cippolini onions and rosemary polenta with Morbier cheese. Espresso Crusted Lamb Rack with apple butter demi-glace and for Easter, a dish I first learned from my uncle’s dad, an Italian chef of great repute, Roasted Leg of lamb with forty garlic cloves.
Until next month, Bon Appétit.
Braised Lamb with Cippolini Onions and Rosemary Morbier Polenta
Ingredients
- 4 Lamb shanks
- ½ Cup olive oil
- 1 Pound cippolini onions peeled
- 2 Leeks white parts only, half-moon cut
- Flour as needed to coat lamb
- Kosher salt
- Paprika
- 12 Cloves garlic
- 8 Sprigs fresh thyme stemmed and chopped
- 1½ Pints red wine – zinfandel or merlot
- 4 Cups veal stock plus 2 cups chicken stock
Morbier Polenta
- 2 Cups polenta
- 4 Cups chicken stock
- 1 Cup heavy cream
- 2 Ounces butter
- 2 Tablespoon rosemary
- 5 Ounces shredded morbier cheese
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Dust lamb shanks with flour salt, black pepper and paprika. Brown in olive oil on all sides over high heat. Remove.
- Add cippolinis. Brown.
- Add leeks and garlic. Sauté until garlic and leeks soften (3-5 minutes).
- Deglaze with red wine. Reduce by half.
- Add shanks back in. Add stocks and ½ the thyme.
- Cover pot. Place in 300° oven. Cook for 2 –2 ½ hours until lamb is tender, but not completely falling off bone.
- Remove lamb. Degrease liquid.
- Reduce by ½ or until sauce coats back off spoon.
- Add remaining thyme and 2 tablespoons chopped flatleaf parsley. Adjust seasoning.
- Serve with morbier polenta.
Make the polenta
- In large saucepan, bring stock, cream and butter to a boil.
- Reduce to simmer. Add polenta.
- Reduce heat to low. Stir with wooden spoon until polenta thickens, stirring constantly.
- Cook 15- 20 minutes until tender and smooth. If polenta gets too thick, but is still crunchy, add more stock.
- While bubbling, add cheese and rosemary. Adjust seasonings.
- Serve with lamb shanks.
Pop-Pop Gasperini’s Leg of Lamb
Ingredients
- 1 Leg of lamb – bone in yes takes a little longer to cook, but the flavor is better
- 40 Cloves garlic
- 1 Cup olive oil
- ¼ Cup fresh rosemary
- Juice from 3 lemons
- Kosher salt
- Cracked black pepper
Instructions
- With a paring knife, insert garlic into lamb. Vary depth of slits. Do this on both sides of leg until all garlic is inserted. Don’t worry. This won’t be garlicky, but if cooked until medium – medium-rare, the garlic will slowly roast and the flavor is amazing. Rub leg with olive oil, salt and pepper. Sprinkle with chopped rosemary and lemon juice. Roast at 350° until it reaches 130°-135° on the meat thermometer – approximately 2 ½ -3 hours, depending on your oven. Use a thermometer to monitor. Let rest 10-15 minutes before carving.
- While meat is resting, degrease roasting pan. Deglaze with 1 cup red wine. Reduce by half, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon. Add 3 cups veal stock. Reduce. Serve as lamb jus.
Espresso Lamb Rack
Ingredients
- 4 Tablespoon chopped flatleaf parsley
- 2 Cups panko bread crumbs
- ½ Cup espresso grinds
- Salt pepper
- 2 Colorado lamb racks Frenched* figure ½ rack per person
- 2 Tablespoons melted butter
- 2 Tablespoons olive oil
Sauce
- 3 Ounces espresso
- 1 Cup apple butter
- 1 Ounce Kahlua
- 1 Shallot minced
- 3 Cups veal stock
- 1 Cup chicken stock
Instructions
- Trim and French* lamb rack. Season with salt and pepper. Sear in cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until brown on all, sides. Remove. Cool.
- In bowl mix parsley, espresso, bread crumbs and melted butter. Pack on front side of lamb rack. Place in roasting pan. Roast at 375° for approximately 25 minutes until lamb reaches 130° for medium–rare. Note: lamb will continue to cook as you let it rest before you slice it. Time is approximate, since ovens vary. Go by temperature. 130° is the same in my kitchen as it is in yours.
Sauce
- In pan the same pan in which you seared the lamb, sauté shallots until translucent. Deglaze with Kahlua, then espresso. Add apple butter and stocks. Reduce by half. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with Espresso Lamb.
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