This is a great time of year. The weather cools off slightly and the harvest is in full swing. One of the great things about growing up in New Jersey near a farm was fresh corn. Iowa and Nebraska can use their corn for ethanol and baseball fields with imaginary players. In the Garden State we just like it straight off the cob. In Jersey the run of the mill golden variety is O.K., but what we crave is the Silver Queen or white corn – sweeter and tenderer than the Midwestern livestock-feed variety.

Contrary to popular belief, corn is not native to North America but originated in Mexico and arrived here in North America about 8,000 years ago. People are forgiven for believing it is a Native American Indian crop since it was such an important part of their life and diet—so important that corn, along with squash and beans, were known as the Three Sisters. Sisters that should be planted together and never be parted. Without corn (and friendly native help) our European ancestors would not have survived one winter. The Native Americans believed corn was of divine origin. According to legend, “it was food of the gods that created the Earth.” The Indian word maize derives from Mahis “source of Life.”

Corn featured prominently in the Colonial diet, especially in the Atlantic States and New England: corn Bread – although I prefer the Southern crackling style, rather than the sweet cake like Boston Brahmin version – corn cakes, porridge, pudding, soups and “chowdas.” Corn is a part of every American region’s diet. In the South, without white hominy corn there would be no grits, and without grits there would be no South. Still viewed suspiciously by most Yankees, grits are a wonderful breakfast food and can be prepared in many savory styles. The Pennsylvania Dutch have fried cornmeal mush, and without cornmeal, Scrapple would not hold together.

Corn is versatile and comes in so many forms. Movies wouldn’t be the same without popcorn; brightly colored Indian corn tells us autumn is here and winter is upon us.

Corn is a favorite in the culinary world. It adds texture sweetness and color contrast to a dish. It pairs well with meat, game or fish, or can stand well on its own. It can be smoked, roasted, grilled, boiled, sautéed or even (grade school lunch flashbacks) creamed (oh, the horrors). It can be cut off the cob or served au naturel.

Husking corn was always the kids’ job when growing up and one I don’t mind even to this day. The sweet smell and scent when you tear back the coarse green husks and sort through the golden silk to yield the prize within is worth any amount of work. For different flavors of corn, try this month’s recipes for Louisiana Corn Maque Choux, Crackling Cheddar Corn Bread, Corn Bisque and Grilled Steak with Char Roasted Corn and Poblano Chili Purée. As for me, while you’re cooking those recipes, I am gonna enjoy some roasted white Jersey corn right off the cob. Until next month, Bon Appétit.

Corn Maque Choux

Jon Davies

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Course Side Dish

Ingredients

  

• 14 Ears corn scraped for kernels
• 4 Tablespoons butter
• ¼ Cup vegetable oil
• 1 Cup diced sweet onions
• ¼ Cup sugar
• 2 Cups vegetable stock or chicken
• 4 Tablespoons margarine or more butter if you have death wish
• ⅛ Teaspoon cayenne
• ½ Teaspoon granulated garlic
• ½ Teaspoon granulated onion
• ½ Teaspoon paprika
• ½ Teaspoon black pepper
• ½ Teaspoon thyme
• 1 Cup evaporated milk
• 2 Eggs

Instructions

 

• In large skillet, melt butter and oil together. Add corn, sugar, onions and seasonings. Cook over high heat until corn is tender and crust begins to form (approx. 12-14 minutes.)
• Stir more often as crust thickens. Add one cup stock stirring to remove crust from pan and incorporate into dish. Cook five minutes stirring occasionally. Add margarine, stir. Add stock as necessary. Add remaining one cup stock. Cook 15 minutes. Stir frequently. Add ½ cup milk. Cook 10 minutes until almost dry. Remove from heat. In separate bowl, whisk eggs and remaining milk. Whisk into corn. Season to taste. Serve immediately. Enjoy 10-12 portions. Two Cajun portions.

Corn and Poblano Chili Purée

Jon Davies

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Course Sauce

Ingredients

  

• 6 Ears corn silk removed in husk
• 4 Poblanos oiled grilled skinned and chopped
• 6 Cloves garlic
• 2 Cups chicken stock
• 3 Tablespoons cilantro
• 1 Tablespoon lime juice
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

 

• Grill corn or roast at 375° for 35 minutes.
• Scrape kernels in sauce pan.
• Melt two tablespoons butter. Sweat garlic and add ¼ cup onion.
• Add diced roasted chilies. Stir and sweat three minutes.
• Add corn.
• Add stock. Bring to simmer.
• Purée. Adjust season for smoky flavor and heat add one chipotle pepper. Purée again. Add cilantro.
• Season with salt and pepper. For extra richness, finish with one tablespoon whole butter whisked in.
• Serve with medium rare steak.

Corn Bisque

Jon Davies

Print Recipe

Course Soup

Ingredients

  

• 1 Cup diced celery
• 1 Cup diced onion
• 6 Cups corn save cobs
• 4 Cups milk
• 4 Cups chicken stock
• 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme
• ¼ Cup crisp bacon garnish
• ¼ Green onions garnish
• ¼ Cup flour
• ¼ Cup butter
• 2 Cups cream

Instructions

 

• In soup pot, melt butter. Sweat celery and onion.
• In separate pot, simmer 3 cloves garlic, 3 sprigs thyme, 2 bay leaves, milk, cream, and corn cobs. Do not boil. Strain and reserve the liquid.
• Add corn kernels to celery and onion. Cook five minutes.
• Dust with flour. Add stock. Simmer 10 minutes.
• Add reserved milk from step 3. Simmer another 10 minutes.
• Purée. Strain through cheesecloth for smoothest soup.
• Season. Finish with cream. If desired, garnish with bacon and green onions.

Notes

Yields – eight portions.