Originally published in Cape May Magazine, July 2006. Photographs by Erin Kirk and Sara Kornacki
Cape May has some of the best beaches in the world. Yup, in the world.
Now before you start rattling off some exotic names from far-off places, think about it: when it comes to accessibility, enjoyability, affordability, agreeability, hard-body visibility, gastro-diversity and eco-activity, Cape May is tops. Truly.
No need for a boat or plane to get to Cape May’s beaches. Sure, everyone wants to visit Maui, or St. John, or San Tropez, but do you have an extra five grand for transportation? Beach tag fees are reasonable on Cape Island and the water is some of the cleanest around. It’s safe, well-kept and the businesses are locally-owned. There’s fishing, boating, swimming, eating, drinking, partying, and yada yada yada. Shall I continue? I think not.
But while the peripherals – the great restaurants, the historic architecture, the cool vibe –are added bonuses that can keep you occupied throughout the year, it’s the beaches – from Lower Township through Cape May Point and up to Poverty Beach – that are the jewels in the Cape Island crown.
Cape Island is a hoof-shaped spit of land at the southern tip of New Jersey. The Delaware Bay laps the western edge of the island, Cape May City fronts the Atlantic on the southeastern side and the Cape May Canal, built around the time of World War II, cuts the island off from the rest of the mainland on the northside. And in that ten or so square miles of peninsula are beaches as divine and diverse as any coastal area in the states. Let’s start on the bayside.
Higbee Wildlife Management Area
Higbee Beach is a wildlife management area owned by the state. It’s wild, there are no lifeguards or bathrooms, and it can practically disappear at high-tide. But it’s a great place to get away from the madding crowd and let the dog run loose.
To get there, turn left onto New England Road just before you cross the canal bridge on Seashore Road. Follow New England Road, and please drive slowly as there are kids about and besides, there’s some great open space that commands a slow look. The road dead-ends into the tree-lined and pothole-riddled parking lot.
Higbee is a great place to take your dog. The beach is bounded by wild dunes covered in native New Jersey scrub bushes like bayberry, Ragusa roses and low pine. But as for amenities, there are none. I think there’s a port-a-john out there but I’ve never used it. And whatever you do, don’t go swimming in the water and for heaven’s sake, don’t go diving around out there. The remains of former industries and people’s past lives are close below the surface out at Higbee and you could easily swim into the remains of someone’s chimney or an old dock or something. With no lifeguards and submerged hazards Higbee’s is not the best swimming beach on the island.
You should also know that Higbee has a, um, colorful, reputation. It’s not a common occurrence, but occasionally someone is arrested on the beach for the crime of being naked. Nudists are drawn there like moths to a flame and some have taken their fight to the courts, attempting to lobby the powers that be to let them do their thing. But alas, going au natural at Higbee remains a crime and the undercover officers (no pun intended) there will make you put your clothes on. They’ll probably ticket you and if you give them cause they’ll arrest you. The rules are fewer at Higbee but don’t go nude.
Here’s the skinny. It’s a great bike ride out to the beach if you’re in the mood. It’s a couple mile ride from Cape May but it’s enjoyable (I suggest the Bayshore route). Get there and let the dog run without a leash but be prepared to meet other unleashed dogs. Expect skeeters and pee before you go there. Marvel at the rugged shoreline and watch the Cape May Lewes Ferry as it steams into port. Contemplate the mystery of the South Voodoo Tree (look for it, you’ll see it). If you go into the woods, check yourself for ticks when you leave.
Sunset Beach
Sunset Beach
Adjacent to Higbee (yet a several mile trek by Bayshore Road) is Sunset Beach in Lower Township. Sunset Beach, as you might guess offers great sunsets every night and is a favorite spot for families and people who simply want to park free and park very close to the beach. There’s a nearby gift shop and the Sunset Grill offers beach fare al fresco.
“I love their crabcake sandwich,” said Jane Ashburn of Lumberville, Pa.
Sunset is a cute spot to sit (there are benches) or stare (there are coin-operated binoculars), fly a kite or take pictures. If you want photos of the S.S. Atlantus, the experimental concrete ship resting offshore (locals simply refer to it as the Concrete Ship), get there quickly, the ocean is claiming its hulking remains. And the nightly flag-lowering ceremony is stirring.
“Sunset is my favorite,” said Jane, who claims to be 70 but looks closer to 55. “I’ve been coming here all my life. I love the guy that makes everybody get up at the end of the day and salute. It’s old-fashioned, it’s patriotic and we need that.”
You might find Cape May Diamonds at Sunset, but you need to know what you’re looking for. There are no lifeguards, the sand is a little rough and it’s not one of the sexier beaches on the island, but it’s worth a look.
“My sister and I always come to Sunset,” said Alyisa Mercaldo, 20, of Green Creek. “It’s just where we like to be. I like to look for diamonds.”
A fun and easy bike ride down Sunset Boulevard to Sunset Beach should be on your list of things to do. Look for Fire Control Tower #23 in the scrub and take a tour.
Cape May Point beach
Cape May Point
I love the point. Quaint, quiet, 99.9 percent residential, unassuming, independent, close-knit and fun loving, “The Point” is a unique spot. It reminds me of some remote seaside outpost; constantly battling with a furious ocean intent on devouring the beaches and driving residents further inland. But Point residents, all six of them (I kid), are fiercely independent and sweep the sand out of the streets every spring and carry on.
The Point, with the help of the Army Corps of Engineers, has been refurbishing its entire stretch of beach for several years. As a result, the beaches are wider and flatter than they’ve been in years. It’s a much mellower vibe than Cape May City and the beach patrol are a fun, friendly and professional bunch.
“I’m not sure I should tell you about my favorite spot,” said Jen Kopp of Lower Township. “But I like St. Peter’s in the Point. It’s quiet, there’s free parking – it’s my secret spot.”
Not much in the way of amenities in the point and that’s the way they like it out there. Pack a lunch and understand that facilities are very limited.
Cape May Point State Park
Cape May Point state park
A beach replenishment project meant that the park had to add new walkways across the dunes in the park. And a much-debated effort to rid the area of invasive phragmites has cleared large tracts of the park of the unsightly reeds and opened new vistas that haven’t been seen in awhile.
The concrete bunker now sits on dry land thanks to untold tons of sand pumped onto the beach. The beach is free but swimming is still prohibited due to underwater hazards, like railroad tracks and the remnants of World War II gun batteries.
The park is a great place to see dolphins and a walk east toward Cape May is an energizing stroll through the William and Jane Blair bird refuge. There are great facilities at the park as well as rangers. The park is also home to the world famous Cape May Lighthouse and hawk watching platform. It’s a nice place to bird watch or people watch and has picnic and grilling facilities. The clean bathrooms alone are worth the price of admission, which is free.
City Of Cape May
The Cove
The City of Cape May has the kind of beaches that the Jersey Shore is famous for: lots of bikinis, plenty of nearby bars, restaurants and shopping, and a long history of beach culture. The nuances of each beach require years of study to fully appreciate. Cape May beaches – the slope, the size, the crowd, the waves – change from year to year. But the surf, sand and sun are the constants that have attracted people from far and wide for centuries.
Cape May requires beach tags and has more rules than other beaches on the island. Go to capemaycity.org for a complete schedule of beach times, guard schedules, fees and ordinances. Locals mix with tourists on all the beaches although lots of people tend to return to the same spot throughout a summer season. Don’t worry about anything, just layout your blanket and chill.
The Cove is the king of the Cape May beaches. The gentle slope has made the Cove a family-friendly spot recently and the surfing there is always popular. The Cove is an ever-changing place and the shape of the beach changes from year to year. Some folks think it’s getting a little crowded, but the view is spectacular and the flag lowering ceremony is inspirational. Good sand too. Weekend weddings can be a nuisance, but it’s still a happening spot. Locals – the ones who have a free moment in the summer – often arrive after 5.
Grant Street Beach and CMBP headquarters
“The Cove is my favorite spot, hands down,” said Sue Lotozo, owner of the Flying Fish Studio on Park Boulevard in West Cape May, and a local beach connoisseur. “I like to get there after four when everyone’s leaving and stay until the last shred of daylight is gone from the sky. I like the way it’s ever-changing. One year there’s a giant tide pool and the next there’s an exposed jetty.”
The Cove is a laid-back place.
I like the community of surfers at the Cove,” added Sue. “It’s a nice long ride heading’ down toward the lighthouse. There are a lot of regulars there, just a wide range of people. You wind up getting to know these people just because you like to surf the Cove.
And the Cove offers plenty of natural attractions as well. Sue describes her walks along the water edge as a “science experiment.”
“You can find all kinds of unusual beach artifacts. It’s not groomed and it’s very natural,” said Sue.
As you move east (or north, depending on whom you’re talking to) Broadway is next. Broadway is the beginning of what’s locally regarded as the locals’ beaches. A lot of the West Cape May kids follow Broadway right to the beach. The locals all know that Broadway is where the younger kids hang. The unspoken pecking order that rules adolescent life ensures that the local grade and middle-schoolers have their own space at Broadway.
But Broadway also attracts a diverse crowd, including long-timers like Dan Anderson, 60, who hangs at Broadway, well, “because it’s where my wife goes.”
Smart man. Seriously though, want to know why Dan lives at the beach?
Congress Beach
“So I can sea (see) level,” he claims. Get it? “There’s bathrooms, good lifeguards (I was a lifeguard on that beach for about a month many years ago) and there’s a place to get food.”
As you move east Patterson is where you’ll find the legendary Rusty Nail restaurant and bar. It’s a beach patrol hangout, boasts the coldest beer in town and is recommended for a visit.
Grant Street is home to the world famous Cape May Beach Patrol headquarters (but they don’t sell beach tags). Plenty of eye candy though. Then there’s Windsor, a favorite neighborhood beach.
“I’ve been coming to Windsor Beach since 1948, because, well, I’ve always lived on Windsor,” said Sandy Thomson, who relocated to Cape May in the 1990s after a career as a teacher.
Congress Street has been host to the fireworks display on July 4. It’s also the location of Congress Hall, which some consider the city’s “living room.” Congress Hall does things right and the personalized beach chair and towel service is a great example. If you’ve had the pleasure of staying at Congress Hall take advantage man, take advantage.
Steger’s Beach
When you hit Perry Street, you’re in the thick of. This is the start of Steger’s Beach and it’s where you’ll find many of the young locals, including Kelsey Herchenrider, from Lower Township. You might find Kelsey with a large group of her friends right in front of the South End Surf Shop.
“I like hanging out with all my friends,” said Kelsey.
The Perry Street side of Steger’s is mainly high schoolers, it gets older as you move east and it’s been that way for a long time. Freshman might get to hang at Stegers, but they’re also probably going to get some lectures on taking care of their beaches and all that stuff.
“It’s a chill place,” said Sean Peterson. “All the good food places are there.”
Next up is Decatur Street, which is a magnificent spot. There are plenty of nearby restaurants and bars in case you need a break from the sun. Cabana’s, Carney’s, Martini Beach and the Fin Bar are all located just steps from the Decatur Street beach. It’s also a favorite spot for some of the twenty-something locals, like Megan Magill who can be found with a few of her close friends right in front of Cabana’s.
“You can see everything that’s going on from here,” said Megan. “You can see Beach Drive (actually, it’s Beach Avenue – but most locals refer to it as Beach Drive), you can see the Boardwalk. Plus you know when it’s time to head up for happy hour.”
If you’re wondering how to score one of those beach boxes or cabanas, call Steger’s Beach Service. They’ve got the franchise on those babies and the word on them is that they get passed down from generation to generation.
“Yeah, some of the names on those cabanas have been there a long time,” said Sandy Thomson.
Howard is the beginning of East Cape May. The shopping and bars are replaced by giant beachfront inns and houses. I think the beaches just don’t seem to get enough of the beach groomer’s attention out here, but families return to these beaches out here like the swallows to San Capistrano. East Cape May runs for a mile or so and includes Jefferson Street, Queen Street (say hi to local photographer Don Merwin), Madison, Philadelphia (get a hotdog at the little hotdog stand there. I guarantee it’s worth the price), Reading (Peter Shields Inn), Pittsburgh, (home to the La Mer Inn), Baltimore, Brooklyn and finally Poverty Beach at Wilmington.
Poverty Beach
Poverty Beach has a long history. Legend has it that in the old days the “help” frequented poverty beach. The entrance to the beach has changed a bit, but there are showers there now. Free parking is a plus and the crowd includes many people from the nearby neighborhood.
“I love Poverty,” said Samantha Lapp of North Cape May. “It’s quiet and there are no parking meters.”
From Higbee Beach to Poverty Beach, Cape May is a beach-lovers’ paradise. Pick the beach that suits you best and put your best suit on (swimsuit that is). Whether you’re interested in seeing friends, returning to a traditional spot, convenient food and beverage, solitude, or nearby shopping, there’s beach that’s just right for you in Cape May.
Terrific, well researched article, makes me want to explore all of the beaches in Cape May!
I believe that the species of grass that grows at Poverty Beach is called poverty grass. That is how it got it's name. That is what I have been told.
I want to go to Higbee very badly now
If I told you I'd have to kill you.
Wow, didnt realize there were so many beach areas in Cape May we will be sure to check out everyone of them when we get there.
Great article that really brings back the memories! What happened to the Jackson Street beach next to what use to be Frank's Playland and the Putt Putt Golf course? Certainly this beach deserves some recognition. That is where I will be camped out this summer!
Hi, Drew – Thanks for your comments! You're thinking of Steger's Beach, which spans from Perry to Decatur Streets, with Jackson right in the middle.
I love The Cove. The little restaurant there is back in the day awesome. So with bathrooms, food and shelter nearby and BEST the view of the ocean, light house and surfers – what more could you ask for. The people are realy friendly. I am there from May to October and love it.
Hi JoAnn
could you tell me where The Cove is.. I am new to Cape May and love the beaches but I never heard of The Cove.
thank you , Linda
If you're looking at a map, the Cove Beach is located at Beach Avenue and 2nd Avenue at the very beginning of the promenade. It's marked by a pavilion. The view looks out toward the lighthouse at Cape May Point.
Broadway Beach is a nice eclectic group of people from the locals from North Cape May, Erma & Villas mixing with visitors from Canada and campers from all over. Gladys is the friendly BeachTag sale lady with all the news of what is going on and where to go. Tom the beach tag man makes sure that everyone knows each other. Come say hello.
where is broadway beach entrance in relation to the vineyard in west cape may?
we stay on stevens street and have been to most of these beaches but am not
sure where broadway beach begins! can’t wait to hit the sand!!!!!
Hi,
My husband and I are planning our Summer vacation (june 24 to July 10). We have triplets (14 months) so we are looking for a family-friendly place to go. Which beach would be better for us? We like quiet places.
We would like to have warmer waters – is there any difference amongst the beaches there?
A friend is going with us – he loves his jet ski. any place he can use it in Cape May?
Is there any place for fishing?
Thank you very much, Luciana
There isn't really a difference in water temperature between the beaches (when it's cold, it's COLD!), but Steger's and Congress beaches are great for families because they are close to the center of town, restaurants, a hot dog stand, and mini golf.
You can't ride jet skis onto Cape May city beaches, but your friend can check out the beaches in Wildwood where that is permitted. There are jet ski rentals available from East Coast Parasail.
We became Cape May “converts” several years ago when our children were 1 and 4. We’ve been to many of the beaches and they
are all great for different reasons, but, I would suggest trying Higbees beach around 2 in the afternoon for the little ones.
Beautiful sunset, waves are small, you can watch the Cape May-Lewes ferry coming and going (the kids love it), not too crowded
for the kids to get lost, beach is small and usually quiet and no beach tags are needed. Only downside- no bathrooms other than port o pot and dogs are allowed on this beach.
Also, fun place to fish.
Whichever beach you pick, they are all great!!!
Hi,
Is there a address i can put into my gps to get to The Cove? We want to come down this weekend.
Thanks. I tried searching but did not find anything.
Thanks!!!
The nearest big intersection is Broadway and Beach Ave. As you are travelling on Broadway toward the beach, turn right on the last street before Beach Drive. You'll see a path at the end of the street, leading to a ramp. Walk up the ramp, and onto the beach. The beach on your left is Cove Beach. On your right is the Conservacy area.
Or you could forget the turn, make a right on Beach Ave and go to the end. The beach on your right is Cove Beach.
Hello!
I have 8/7 and 4 year old, which beach is the best place for them and I am just wondering if there is any park they can play.
Is portable grilling allowed?
Thanks very much
I am 60 now & my family has a home in North Cape May. I love Cape May and I have been to all of the beaches but the Cove is my favorite. I love the beautiful view to the lighthouse and the nice long walk to get there. I like it better than Hawaii, Mexico , the Caribbean , Florida & California. We like to take the long walk when the dolphins head down toward the sunken ship !! Can’t wait to go back !!
Steve, please tell me how close you are to the beach. I am seeing some reasonably priced homes in North Cape May for our retirement, but I am wondering how close North Cape May is to the ocean. Also, is NJ a good state for retirement, generally speaking, or are the real estate taxes too high. Thanks for your help.
i was wondering if you can play vollyball on steggers beach in cape may?
My family and I (kids are 17, 19, 20)are going to Cape May for the first time, on my B-day. After reading all the comments about the beaches, I can’t wait! Which beach has easily accessible parking and a place we can easily buy beach tags? Also, is a beach tag specifically for that ONE beach or can you use it at any beach on Cape May? Thanks. Also, can you use Boogy Boards on the beaches?
There is really not a bad beach at Cape May. Almost all are easily accessible with parking. Some beaches are free and require no tags. (Higbee, Lighthouse, Sunset) but are not good for Boogy boards. As far as bogey boards, I would try The Cove or Poverty beach or a any of the “ocean” beaches. (some beaches are “bay” beaches, nice for relaxing but small waves).
The ocean beaches all require beach tags that are specific to that beach. They are daily, 3 day , and weekly. (3 day has to be used in 3 consecutive days). All beaches have lifeguards except for the free state park beaches. Lighthouse beach does not allow boogey boards or swimming except for a quick dip or in shallow waters.
We stay for two weeks and go to a different beach every day, depending on our mood and what we want to do. All of the beaches along the ocean from The Cove to Poverty would probably suit your kids since they are older and can go up to the food places and such along the beach area. More people and more things to do there.
Have a great stay here in Cape May.
We’re in Cape May now. I’m wholly unimpressed with the city as a whole! The $12 a day parking is absurd given the large number of potholes in the streets. We were told that we cannot carry our 4-year-old into the water at The Cove. (My husband was carrying her out until he could hold her hands to jump waves when a lifeguard came rushing over.) Children also cannot wear life preservers over ankle deep. (Why would you wear a life preserver at ankle deep?)
I grew up on the ocean, and we’ve been to beaches all up and down the Eastern Seaboard. Cape May has been the least accommodating experience so far, and we certainly will not be back. We’re driving out of the city for the rest of the week to avoid spending anything more here.
See ya!
You just seem like one of those tourists that is looking to nit-pick
This is why…it would have been nice if the lifeguard explained it to you. Please ignore the sarcastic locals, very embarrassing.
http://www.pressofatlanticcity.com/news/top_three/after-breaking-his-neck-in-a-surfing-accident-cape-may/article_966dfd5c-6204-11df-8b8d-001cc4c03286.html
Living in England, I read about Cape May and talked my wife (born and raised in Philly) to going there late last month while we were on holiday (she had never been). It was great: we loved going to the lighthouse and visiting the free beach there. Very few people, no noise, wildlife (purple martins in their birdhouses), it was as if we had found a hidden treasure. OK, so there were potholes in the roads but that added to the sense of visiting a hideaway. And the Victorian villas were gorgeous. We’ll be back for sure.
My wife and I are in Cape May now since Sat, July 9 celebrating our first wedding anniversary and we will stay here till Thurs, July 14 and I have to say that we both have loved Cape May a lot. Its beautiful and charming town and the atmosphere is very relaxed and easy going. People are friendly. Sites such as Cape May Lighthouse, Lookout Tower, Physick Estate, Cape Point State Park, Cold Spring Village and Beaches are amazing. Its so green here, trees and greenery everywhere and who wouldn’t love the nature. Also doing the Dolphin Watch and Dinner cruise is a lot of fun. Plus its really clean here.
History is amazing and all the house, hotels and B&B are so beautiful. What a contrast from the New York City where we live. Fantastic place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the big town like NYC. We will come back again.
Don’t you just love it? We’ve discovered this Jersey gem in 1999 and have been coming every year since. We love Cape May!
Which beach has the smallest waves?
Higbee and Sunset Beach because they’re on the Delaware Bay.
Where is Mount Vernon Beach located? How do we get there. We will hopefully be attending a wedding on June 30th located above. Please send me directions from Millville NJ. Gloria
Please send directions to Mount Vernon Beach in Cape May. Attending wedding next Sat. can’t locate this beach on map quest.
If you received a reply for the directions to Mt. Vernon Beach in Cape May, could you please email them to me. I to will be at Katelynn’s wedding (at least I hope I find it) and am having trouble locating on a map. Thank you for your help.
Paulette
Hi! Thanks for all the info. We are going to Cape May for the first time on July 14th-21. We are staying on 5th Ave. in West Cape May.
Which beach is closest to us? Does sunset beach have restrooms and lifeguards? What about Cape May Point? Restrooms? lifeguards ? Poverty? We are a group of families with 3 small children. We like quieter and smaller beaches but bathrooms are a must.
You said that each beach needs its own beach badges. So I really need to know which beach we want to go to as we will go all week to the same beach to save money.
If I purchase an all week beach pass and use it at the Cove beach, must I continue using Cove beach all week or can I also use it at Poverty beach? Thank you for the info.
No, it’ll work at any of the Cape May beaches.
It will work at any of the Cape May beaches but WILL NOT work at the beaches of Cape May Point. They have their own
tags at the Point. (Poverty to Cove-yes. Point Beaches-no.)
can’t wait to be back in CM at the end of July. Last time was 2006 and too much time has passed. My mother took me down from Phila when I was very young in the 60s. Started bringing my wife & son (now 20) in 1998. My ancestry in CM goes back to the late 1600s. Needless to say, we LOVE Cape May!
I’m confused….Do you or do you not need a beach tag for Cape May Point State Park Beach in season????
Cape May Point State Park does not require a beach tag, since it is a state beach. However, it is not a swimming beach.
We were there in June, and yes, the beach taggers were at the Point.
They are referring to the beach by the lighthouse, and you do NOT need a tag there. You do, however need tags the the Cape May Point public beaches
We are coming down to Cape May for Labor Day and was wondering if the beach off Crystal Ave is good for kids.
what are the bay beaches like…are they ok for swimming
Does anyone know of blue lagoon in cape may
Hi! I am looking to surf fish….where is the best place to do This?
Hi there, I’m looking for someone to show me the fun things to do in cape may, n share fun times…. just a friendly companionship. Thanks…
Hi. I’m considering on taking a trip to Cape May in August. I will have my daughter with me that loves beaches. She loves looking for shells. This might sound like a silly question, but is there shells on the beaches? And if so, which beach would be the best to look for them? All I can see in the pictures is sand and haven’t read anything on people finding shells. Would greatly appreiciate any help.
What beach is closest to the Coast Guard training station?