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My assignment? What to do on a
cloudy/rainy day in Cape May? Why the
answer to that is as easy as pie. Take a
tour.
But how many tours can tourist
tour if a tourist could tour Cape May? I
set my problem before Jean Barraclough,
who handles public relations for the
citadel of tours - the Mid-Atlantic
Center for the Arts (MAC).
She very kindly set before me a touring
itinerary which would put the blush to
any self respecting tourist’s cheek. I
begin at 10 a.m. with a tour of the
lighthouse, located at Cape May Point
State Park. At 11 a..m. a guided-walking
tour of the historic district is in the
offing. A combo trolley tour of the
Physick Estate
begins at 12:30. The Tour and
Tea Sampler begins at 2:30, ending with
tea at the Twinings Tearoom, located at
the Physick Estate. Lastly, is the very
popular Ghost Tour which begins at 7:30
p.m.
Oh I hear you skeptics out there. You
think I’ll never be able to carry it of.
Ah ye of little faith. Just watch me.
Now, I realize I’m a little pressed
for time. I have exactly one hour to
climb199 steps - take a look about -
climb back down and head on back to Cape
May proper where I will meet up with the
tour group in front of MAC’s information
and ticket booth at the end of the
Washington Street Mall and Ocean
Street. Jean has thoughtfully provided
me with my itinerary and tickets which I
have tucked safely away in my camera
bag.
I must say, one of the nice things about
being at the Lighthouse so early is that
there aren’t a whole lot of people out.
It is Saturday - THE most popular
day for touring but it is cloudy and
predictions of heavy rains have been in
forecast all week so I suspect the
turnout will be a little lighter today
than normal.
The gentleman who takes my ticket is
very nice and wants to show me his
picture of the WWII bunker, located on
the beach in front of the Cape May Point
State Park. His picture is of the bunker
before the Army Corps of Engineers’
began their beach replenishment project
a year or so ago. In the picture, the
bunker is barely visible amidst the sand
and water. Make sure you take a look at
it while you’re up top, he says, you’ll
be amazed at the difference. So up I go.
Truth be told, I’m in a hurry. I start
sprinting up those long, winding stairs
like
an adolescent. Here’s the thing.
I’m not an adolescent. I’m.....well
never mind that. Let’s just say after
the second landing, I was huffin’ and a
puffin’ and had to take a break. The
amazing thing about taking a break is I
discovered something I’d forgotten
about. Each landing has a little round
lookout window. This particular landing
has pictures of the town of
South Cape May. Never heard of it?
That’s because it disappeared. South
Cape May ran from First Avenue, down by
the
Sunset Pavilion on the western side
of town, to 26th Avenue, where the park
and the bird sanctuary of South Cape
Meadows is now.
It’s very cool to be reminded of how
Cape Island used to look, but I’m in a
hurry and must charge forward. I have
about 140 more steps to go.
Ok. I’m not in a hurry any more because
if I keep this up, the trip down will be
with assistance.
When I get to the top of the lighthouse,
a very nice lady tells me about the
beacon and points out the pictures and
objects on display. I take a few
pictures and then step out onto the
walkway which surrounds the tippy top of
the lighthouse. There is a family
already out there looking about. The
clouds are really rolling in now and the
wind is, shall we say, formidable. And
the view? Spectacular. I’m so amazed at
how cute the Borough of Cape May Point
looks – just like an English hamlet. I
decide that if I turn just a certain
way, I can poke the lens of my camera
through the guardrails to get a better
picture. Just as I snap the shot, I see
a bunch of papers floating through the
air. Wow, I say to myself, I feel sorry
that person. Then I realize that family
I told you about are all staring at me.
No. No. Surely not. Surely those papers
are not my touring tickets. Gripped with
panic, the only thing I want to do now
is to look through my camera bag but
it’s too windy to take it off my back
and what if something else falls out? I
make my way to the door as soon as I
can. Now if you think going up 199 steps
is tough, try going back down in a hurry
just at the time when lots of tourists
are coming up the stairs. I’ll make my
way to the first landing and check, I
say to myself, but there are people
there. Down I go. Finally, I find an
empty spot. There it is - I have
neglected to zip my camera bag.
Normally, that wouldn’t have been a
problem but gale-force winds do
exaggerate any mistake. My itinerary is
still there. The tickets are gone. I
spend a few minutes driving around Cape
May Point looking for the illusive
tickets but I’m starting to look like a
stalker and I abandon all hope.
By the time I arrive back in Cape May
and make my way to the MAC booth it is
11:05. It’s ok, says the man at the
booth, the sky is so black, no one
really showed for the walking tour but I
can take my own walking tour, he says. I
can even go back to the Physick Estate
(MAC headquarters) and pick up and audio
version of the tour to help guide me.
Off I go to the Physick Estate on
Washington Street to see about the audio
tapes and to explain my plight to Dawn
who is working the desk that day. Once
she stops laughing, she is extremely
nice and helpful and gets me new
tickets. By now, however, it has started
raining and I decide that a walking
tour, no matter how it is guided, is not
in the stars. However, the Tea and Tour
Sampler, is right up my alley and
perfect for the kind of day it is
turning out to be. I climb aboard the
Sampler trolley and take a closer look
at the tour details. I will be visiting
four
Victorian B&Bs. Two are across the
street from each other. Good. Because
it’s raining even harder.
The Henry Sawyer Inn and
Dormer House are both on Columbia
Avenue. The other two B&Bs on the list
are the
Mason Cottage, also on Columbia
Avenue, and
Beauclaire’s on Ocean Street.
I can’t say our trolley was full but it
was respectable considering the weather.
Off we go. One nice thing about this
tour is you under no time schedule
except your own. Had the weather been
nice, I could have just walked to all
four B&Bs. The only time factor is to be
sure and catch the Sampler trolley at 4
p.m. when it leaves from its Ocean and
Washington Street stop (across from the
info. booth). Some of us went into the
Henry Sawyer Inn, circa 1877, and the
other half went across the street to
Dormer House, circa 1899.
Getting a glimpse inside these old
houses is the best thing about touring
Cape May. Not only are you walking into
another era, you are also walking into,
for t he most part, someone’s home. Most
of the innkeepers live in their inns and
it’s quite nice when they personally
show you around as did Barbara and Mary
Morris of the Henry Sawyer Inn, and
Dennis Doherty of Dormer House. I won’t
give you too many details so I don’t
spoil the surprises which await you when
you take the tour yourself but the Henry
Sawyer Inn has a cradle built by Abraham
Lincoln’s father. And when you visit
Dormer House, built in the winter of
1899-1900, ask Dennis what’s behind that
very large armoire? You’ll never guess.
And I’m not telling.
There was no need for a trolley just to
walk a few feet up the street to the
Mason Cottage, circa 1871. I’d been in
the Mason before and am always bowled
over by its charm. By now I’d separated
from the group who were on the bus but
we kept passing each other as we went in
and out the B&Bs. My last stop was
Beauclaire’s. Andrew was my host. This
circa 1879, Queen Anne-style house was
built the year after the Great Fire of
1878 and it is incredible. The
workmanship of the chestnut staircase,
the black walnut fireplace, the oil
painting, (original to the house), all
make you just want to curl up in the
parlor and read one of Andrew’s books
which he has carefully chosen for his
guests’ reading pleasure.
Well I don’t know about you, but I’m
ready for tea. The rain hasn’t stopped
and a nice hot cup of tea is just what
the Dr. Physick ordered. Our original
group assembled and our Sampler Trolley
meandered its way down Washington Street
to the Physick Estate. Now, had I taken
the Combo Trolley Tour, I would have
toured the historic district from the
confines of the trolley and then been
taken to the Physick Estate for a tour
inside the home of Dr. Emlen Physick,
his mother Mrs. Frances Ralston. I opted
instead for the Cape May Sampler Tour &
Tea and, as I had just recently toured
the Physick Estate, I picked the right
tour for me. Both tours ended in the
Twinings Tea Room and can I just
say….what fun!
Everyone in the Tea Room was in a great
mood – and hark ye lads – it wasn’t all
women. There were several couples
scattered about. Our waitress Sharon and
the Tea Room manager Christine were such
g ood sports about taking pictures,
singing Happy Birthday, and generally
making sure everyone had a good time,
that I’ve made it a personal point to go
back sans tour just tea. And by the way,
the tea cakes were to die for. A
precisely 5 p.m. we boarded the Sampler
Trolley and were dropped off at the
Ocean Street trolley stop.
Time enough for a little nap, until 7:30
when the VERY popular and almost
sold-out Ghosts of Cape May trolley tour
was scheduled to begin. Audrey is our
tour guide and Hector our trolley
driver. Some of the same folks who were
on the Sampler tour were also on this
one and why not? Everyone loves a good
ghost story and Audrey had tons of them.
We rode around for about 45-minutes to
an hour, rubbing our steam covered
windows to get a glimpse of the window,
the
turret or the hotel room in which
ghosts have from time to time lurked. As
ghost author Craig McManus maintains in
his book The Ghosts of Cape May,
our island has more ghosts than almost
any other city along the eastern
seaboard because they like it here and
are not inclined to leave. Craig’s well
documented ghost stories are the basis
for this tour. So, if you can’t take the
tour buy the book.
And that’s it. Had I not lost my
tickets, I might have been able to
squeeze in one walking tour either with
or without guide, but I think I took
about as many tours as a tourist can
tour in one day and mighty glad I did.
Any of the tours is fabulous in and of
itself (although I am partial to the
ones with food) so even if it is a nice
sunny day, please think about taking
one. The friendly folks at
MAC are
always available. |